California / Japanese Rice


Milled California japonica rice grains [Sushi Rice; Uruchimai (Japanese - ordinary rice); Orzo sativa var japonica]

Japonica type rice is a short or medium grain rice with translucent grains high in easily gelatinized amylopectin starch. This is the preferred type for cooking in Japan, Korea and parts of northern China. Major reasons are that it can be handled easily with chopsticks, and that Japonica can be grown in cooler climates than Indica (long grain) can.

Japonica is also used in the Caribbean and South America, where it may be imported from California or locally grown. Despite what you see on the Internet, this is the rice to use for Arroz con Pollo, which is related to Spanish paella. Paella is always made with japonica rice.

Japanese cultivars are a little different from California cultivars. The Japanese are short grain and the California is medium grain. Most popular in Japan is Koshihikari, a recently developed cultivar, but Akitakomachi is well liked. Sasanishiki is preferred for sushi, and Yamada Nishiki is used to make sake.

About 85% of the California crop is Japonica. The original Calrose (USDA # C.I. 8988), released in 1948, was developed by Japanese farmers to be compatible with Japanese tastes and California growing conditions. The original 8988 was replaced by more water thrifty varieties in the 1970s and "Calrose" is now a generic term for California varieties. I personally much prefer Kukuho Rose, grown in California by Koda Farms. California's major export markets are Japan, Korea, Taiwan and Turkey, in that order. Less than 60% of the California crop is consumed in North America. Calrose rice is also grown in Australia.

Some Japanese Koshihikari rice is now grown in California. Some brown California rice is produced, mainly for sale in North America as Asians eat almost no brown rice, though it may be used in tea. Some short grain "sweet rice" (Japanese mochigome) is grown in California, particularly by Koda Farms, and it is also grown elsewhere in the United States, but this is a specialty rice used for sweets and deserts. Only in Laos and northeastern Thailand is sweet rice the main rice. Caution: for Thai and Laotian recipes you must use Thai sweet rice, which is a long grain sweet rice.

General Information on Rice
Japanese Rice.


All Japanese and Korean restaurants and sushi bars in North America use California rice. It is also used for Eastern European cabbage rolls and other stuffing uses, including Grape Leaf Dolma rolls. It is imperfectly adaptable to Italian Risotto and Spanish Paella. For those uses exact absorption characteristics are critical.

Japonica rice is little used in southern China (depends on fashion of the time), and is not used at all in India or Southeast Asia. For northern India use Basmati, and for southern India use local varieties, or Thai Jasmine, if local varieties aren't available. For Southeast Asia, including Indonesia and the Philippines, use Thai Jasmine rice.

Preference:

  One common brand of Calrose, Botan, has been widely criticized, particularly for sushi. One knowledgeable writer (date unknown) recommends Safeway brand Calrose as much better, but even more likes my favorite, Kokuho Rose. The Koreans love Kokuho Rose, and they are now our providers of all things Japanese (the Japanese have been assimilated). Nishiki (M401) is very similar to Kukuho Rose, and well respected. Both are described as "New Variety". On the other hand, Cooks Illustrated chose Botan as the best sushi rice, and Kukuho Rose as barely acceptable. But Boston? Sushi? You've got to be putting me on.

Buying:

  Calrose rice can be found in nearly any supermarket or ethnic market in North America. Kokuho Rose and Nishiki may be a little harder to find, unless you know where to find a Korean market (no problem here in Los Angeles). For Kokuho Rose, I, and most Asians, use the style with the big red ball. There's also a "Kokuho Rice" with a big yellow ball. That one is a little less sweet and a little less sticky. I hear it is very popular in Hawaii.

Japanese imports are very hard to find and absurdly expensive. California grown Japanese cultivars are often packaged to look ever so Japanese, except for the "Product of USA" in small print on the back side. If the price looks almost acceptable, be suspicious, if what you want is "real Japanese".

Storing:

  This rice can eventually become rancid, depending on milling. Storage should be in a tightly sealed container away from heat, light and moisture, and it should be consumed within a year. Brown rice should be used within a month or two as it goes rancid quickly.

Cooking:

  For using a Rice Cooker or stovetop absorption method, a cup of California white rice should get a touch more than 1-3/4 cups of water and should be fully cooked within 25 minutes. Exact amount of water and time will vary a little depending on age of rice. If you live at a high altitude, you'll need more water and more time.

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