Contents
History & General Information
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Working with Herbs
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Arugula - see Rocket.
Banana Leaf - [Musa acuminata,
Musa paradisiaca (plantain)]
Bananas are the largest of the herbs. Their leaves are used in many
tropical cultures as a flavoring wrapper for steamed and baked foods. The
photo shows a quarter leaf (split down the spine and about half length)
about 4 feet long by 13 inches at the wide end. Banana plants grow all over
Southern California as decoratives, but are generally not suitable
as wrappers because the leaves have been split up by the wind.
If you can't find fresh banana leaves in your area they are usually
available frozen in Asian groceries. Frozen ones work fine and unused
leaf can be refrozen. Parchment paper can be used if no banana leaves
can be found - no flavor is imparted but otherwise it works fine.
Basils
Basils are a major sub-tibe of the mints. Varieties of these aromatic
plants are grown worldwide and are of particular importance in Italy and
Thailand.
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Holy Basil - [Tulsi (india), Krapao (thai)
Hot Basil Ocimum sanctum (Mint family)]
This basil is used in India mainly for religious purposes but is prized
for culinary uses in Thailand. There are two basic varieties, one with
purplish green leaves and purple stems, the other all green. Unlike other
basils teh leaf margins are strongly serrated and the leaves are slightly
fuzzy. It has very poor keeping qualities, if it's really fresh when you buy
it you may get 2 days. Holy Basil has a strong flavor that is sharper and
more minty than other basils. Subst: Mint, Perilla, a mix of Thai
Purple Basil and Mint.
Italian Basil - [Sweet Basil,
Medeterranean Basil, Ocimum basilicum (Mint family)]
This Basil is universally called for in European and American recipes.
It is easy to grow in season and has decent keeping properties (almost a
week if treated well). It is more aromatic and less sharp than
Thai Purple Basil but the two can be used interchangeably
in a pinch. I've used Thai Purple to make Italian Pesto because I can get it
cheap at ethnic groceries while Italian Basil can cost several dolars an
ounce in the supermarkets.
Thai Basil - [Ocimum canum]
A perennial basil grown in Thailand and recently brought to Europe
but not yet popular in the U.S.. It's flavor is strong but less pleasant
than other Thai Basils (see below).
Thai Lemon Basil - [O. citriodorum]
One of the basils common in Southern California and labeled "Thai Basil".
It is characterized by a citrus fragrence, smaller light green pointed leaves
of a relatively light flavor and bad keeping properties (about 2 days
if you take good care of it). It often alternates with Thai
Purple Basil in the stores. The stronger more aromatic flavor of the
purple is better for most Thai cooking, the Lemon Basil for salads.
Thai Purple Basil - [Bai Horapha (thai),
Hung Que (viet), Ocimum basilicum]
Becoming quite common in Southern California now, this basil has good
flavor and reasonable keeping properties (almost a week if treated well).
In general the leaves are dark green with only a hint of purple, and the
stems are distinctly purple but there are also all-green varieties.
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Camellia - [Tea, Cha, Chai,
Camellia sinensis (Camellia family)]
This Southeast Asian camellia, source of the green, white, black and
oolong teas of commerce, is closely related to camellias grown as
decoratives.
Celery - [Apium graveolens
var. dulce mostly cult. Pascal]
Celery, most commonly used as a vegetable, appears here because it's leaves
are used as an herb. Medeterranean in origin, celery is now grown worldwide.
Unfortunately, market celery is cut off a couple of inches above the first
branching so few leaves are available.
Celery, Chinese - [Kin-tsai,
Bai Khuen Chai, Kun Choy, Apium graveolens dulce]
Chinese celery is much like European celery was in ancient Greek and Roman
times. Leafier, stringier and stronger in taste than regular celery it is not
used raw. If you can't find Chinese celery use regular celery above the first
branching.
Chahe - a name I've seen only in a local store that serves
Armenian, Slavic and Mid Eastern communities. By taste and appearance
it is a variety of Rocket smaller than the
Arugula now in such favor with the yuppies.
Cilantro - [Coriander,
Chinese Parsley, Ngo (viet), Mui (viet), Coriandrum sativum]
This member of the parsley family is used fresh, and even overused, in
almost every cuisine in the temperate and tropical world. "Coriander seeds"
in the spice jars are the dried fruits of this plant.
Cilantro leaves are almost never used dried because they lose their flavor
almost totatlly.
Culantro - [Mexican Coriander, racao
(caribbean), Ngo Gai (viet), pak chi farang (thai), Long Coriander,
Eryngium foetidum (parsley family)]
This herb native to Central America does not at all resemble common
Cilantro (Coriander) but is in fact closely related
and of similar flavor. It's a popular culinary herb in the Caribbean and
Central America and has been planted in other tropical areas. It's now
popular in Southeast Asia, especially Vietnam where it's torn up and added
to the popular pho soup. In Thailand, where it's name, pak chi farang,
means "foreign corriander" it's used for curry pastes when Cilantro roots
are not available.
Curry Leaf -
[Chalcas koenigii (Citrus family)],
This member of the citrus family produces aromatic leaves much used in
India, particularly southern and central India and Sri Lanka
and essential to authenticity in those cuisines. There is no known
substitute so if you don't have them you just have to leave them out. They
have an aromatic and slightly camphorous taste and are generally used in
small quantity, fried in oil with the cumin or mustard seeds before adding
the onions or other main ingredients.
Curry leaves dry well but are usually dried only for immediate use in
spice mixes because their flavor fades quickly after drying. If you don't
have a ready supply, we recommend buying a bunch of fresh ones, stripping
the leaves off the stems and freezing them in small bags. They turn dark,
but they're going to turn dark fried in oil anyway.
Dill - [Shebet (farsi), Ukrop (russia)
Anethum graveolens (Parsley family)]
Like several other parsley family herbs, Dill shows up in both the
herb (Dill Weed) and spice (Dill Seed) lists.
A native of central Asia, dill is important in the cuisines of Afghanistan,
Persia and Russia and has spread to all surrounding areas. A milder
species (A. sowa) is grown in India. Fresh dill is much used with
fish in Scandanavia and Germany and as a pickling herb worldwide.
Epazota - [Stink Weed, Jesuite
tea, Chenopodium ambrosioides (Goosefoot family)]
This relative of spinach originates from Central America. It is
mostly used with beans, and black beans in particular. It has a unique
taste and odor with no ready substitute. Savory has
been suggested as a substitute because it also goes well with beans but
the flavor is definitely not the same. Dried Epazote is very much
inferior to fresh, but only those who grow their own have access to the
fresh herb. Fortunately it's weedy nature makes it easy to grow in
warm and temperate climates.
Fennel - [Finocchio (italy), Foeniculum
vulgare (parsley family)]
Fennel is unusual in being used as a spice
(dried fruits) as an herb (fronds) and
as a vegetable (swolen stem bases). The tender feathery fronds are used as
a sweet licorice flavored herb in fresh salads and sprinkled over various
dishes, particularly those containing fennel "bulbs". These fronds are
generally taken from the same variety used as a vegetable due to easy
availabiity. A different, bulbless variety of the same species is used
for the spice.
Fenugreek - [Methi (india), Shanbalile
(persia), Trigonella foenum-graecum (Bean family)]
Young fronds of this bean are used as a slightly bitter herb in the
cooking of Persia, parts of India and the Near East. The
tiny angular seeds are also used as a spice
in a somewhat wider area. Fresh fronds can be found in some ethnic groceries
but are not common. You can grow your own easily from the seeds. Harvest
when about 6 inches high.
Blue Fenugreek, a related bean species (Trigonella caerulea)
is found in the Alpine regions of Europe where it is used as an herb to
flavor bread and cheese. It is little known outside that area.
Lovage - [Levisticum
officinale (Parsley family)]
A most important herb in the cuisine of ancient Rome, Lovage is still
grown and used in southern and central Europe but has faded just about
everywhere else. Leaves, fruits and roots have similar flavor. Lovage is not
grown commercially in the U.S. but is available from the herb section of local
plant nurseries and should be grown by anyone interested in recreating Roman
cusine as celery is an inadequate substitute.
Miner's Lettuce - [Winter Purslane,
Spring Beauty, Indian lettuce; Claytonia perfoliata]
This herb, native to the western mountain and coastal regions of North and
Central America, is the only member of the purslane family
(Portulacaceae) other than Common Purslane used
for food in North America and Europe. It is also now fairly widespread in
Western Europe.
Named for the California Gold Rush miners who ate it to prevent scurvy,
miner's lettuce can be used raw in salads or cooked like spinach which it
somewhat resembles in taste. The photo shows round form of leaf with a flower
dot at the center which will grow into a stem with a bunch of flowers at the
tip. The normal leaves are heart or spade shaped - all those other leaves
belong to other weeds. This herb does best in moist shady locations.
Photo by
Antandrus - public
domain.
Mints
Mints are a large family of aromatic herbs including:
- Basil
- Mint
- Oregano
- Perilla
- Rosemary
- Sage
- Savory
- Thyme
Ngo Om (viet) - [Ba Om, Rau Om,
Rice paddy herb, Limnophila aromatica (figwort / snapdragon family)]
This acquatic herb grows well in still water, such as found in rice
paddies. It's particularly popular in Vietnam for sour fish soup and with
chicken but is also used in China and Japan. The flavor can best be described
as a mix of lemon and cumin. In Chinese, Japanese and Korean the name of this
herb is a modified name for Perilla, a completely
unrelated herb. While the two tastes are far from identical they are
suggestive of each other.
Parsleys
Parsleys are a large family of aromatic herbs many of which also provide
fruits for spices and roots or stalks as aromatic vegetables. Important
members of the family include:
- Ajwan,
- Asafoetida
- Anise
- Caraway
- Celery
- Coriander (Cilantro)
- Cumin
- Dill
- Fennel
- Lovage
- Parsley itself
- Sylphion (extinct)
Parsley - [
Petroselinum crispum (Parsley family)]
Of Medeterranean origin, parsley is used as an herb and its small woody
roots are used as an aromatic vegetable for flavoring stocks and the like.
Unlike other members of the parsley family the fruits are seldom used.
There are three common cultivars, flat leaf (Italian), curley leaf and root
parsley.
For all culinary applications use the flat leaf parsley - curly leaf
parsley is purely decorative and for its edibility might as well be plastic.
Parsley is generally used as a flavoring herb or garnish but is sometimes a
featured ingredient as in Turkish
Bulgur. Dried parsley is useful only for adding flavorless green specs
to stuff.
Perilla - [Shiso (jap), Kkaennip
(korea), Beefsteak plant, Summer Coleus, Wild Basil, Chinese Basil,
Rattlesnake Weed, Perilla frutescens (Mint family)]
The flavor of this broad leafed member of the mint family is distinctive
but very difficult to describe. A little lemony, a little peppery, minty and
a bit weedy and medicinal. It is now widespread but of culinary use mainly
in East Asia where it originated, particularly in Japan and Korea. Americans
most commonly encounter the leaf with sushi and sashimi in Japanese restaurants
but it has been used as a commercial flavoring here in toothpaste, candy and
soft drinks.
The variety in the photo, widely available in Asian markets in Southern
California, is green on top and tends to purple on the underside. Some
Japanese and Vietnamese varieties are intense purple on both sides and some,
particularly a Korean variety are completely green. Perilla is very toxic
to cattle, sheep and horsess but is safe for people, at least in the
quantities used.
Parilla seeds are used as a spice and parilla oil, squeezed from the
seeds, is used for cooking in Korea and other Asian countries. The seed is
used medicinally, particularly in China. and the oil is now being promoted
on "health food" sites at the usual high prices and with the usual "These
statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA)"
disclaimer.
Purslane - [Verdolagas (Mexico);
Sanhti, Punarva (India); Pigweed, Little Hogweed, Portulaca oleracea]
This succulent weed common in California vinyards is actually native to India
and the Near East. It was extensively used in ancient Greece and still appears
in Mediterranean cuisines. There is evidence it had already migrated to the
New World well before Columbus. The only other member of the Purslane family
(Portulacaceae) used as food in North America and Europe is
Miner's Lettuce, also known as "Winter Purslane".
Purslane is used raw in salads, as a cooked green similar in taste to
spinach. It is also used in soups where it's slightly mucilaginous nature
acts as a thickener. It can be found in markets serving a Mexican community.
Purslane is unusually high in Omega-3 fatty acids and is also a source
of vitamin C and dietary minerals. It also contains powerful antioxidants
which may have anti-cancer properties. In India it is used as a liver
tonic.
Rau Dang - [(Viet), Foo Yip (Cantonese),
Glinus oppositifolius]
This strong flavored somewhat bitter herb does not yet have a common English
name, but is popular for certain fish soups and stews in Vietnam. Elsewhere
it's use is mainly medicinal. A related herb, G. lotoides, also native
to Africa and Southeast Asia has recently been found as an invasive weed in
California as well as Louisiana and other southern states.
Rocket - [Arugula, Rucola (it),
Ruchetta (it) Eruca sativa (mustard family)]
A salad herb native to the Mediterranean where it grows wild. It was
greatly in favor in Europe during Medieval times and has been reintroduced
to become a darling of the nouvelle cuisine enthusiasts. The alternate English
term Arugula probably derives from Italian, adopted to make it sound more
high class. It's peppery, mustardy sharpness adds interest to salads but
is lost by cooking.
Rue - [Ruta graveolens]
An intensely bitter herb, rue has faded from the culinary scene except in
Ethiopia. Once widely used in the Mediterranean region it is still
occasionally called for in traditional recipes and also appears as a flavoring
in some distilled beverages. It should always be used fresh, so you will
need it in your garden if you wish to use it. A common decorative, it can
be found in the herb section of most well stocked nurseries and is easy to
grow in temperate climates. The blue-green leaves are very small, about 3/8
inch long.
Detail and Cooking.
Savory - [Marzeh (farsi), Summer
Savory Satureja hortensis, Winter Savory Satureja montana
(Mint family)]
Savory's flavor is about midway between Thyme and Oregano. The two
most common species of Savory (anual Summer Savory and perennial Winter
Savory) are culinarily equivalent. Unlike Thyme Savory is used mostly with
vegetable dishes, particularly beans. It has been suggested as a substitute
for Epazota (which can be hard to find) for Central and South American
dishes, though the flavor is definitely different. Savory can be used
raw in salads and when used in cooked dishes it should be added right at
the end of cooking to preserve flavor. Savory should be used fresh as
it looses its character when dried.
Silphion - [(Parsley Family)]
Silphion was grown in North Africa when it was the breadbasket of the
Roman empire, but was rendered extinct by the desertification resulting
from poor agricultural practices. While the leaves were sometimes used as
an herb and stalks as a vegetable the main use was for resin obtained by
cutting the roots or stalks. This resin was highly prized and very expensive,
but the only similar product available today is
Asafetida which was considered highly
inferior when silphion was available.
Tarragon, French (German) -
[Estragon (fr. and other) Artemisia dracunculus (sunflower family)]
Tarragon, Russian - [Artemisia dracunculus
(sunflower family)]
Tarragon, Mexican - [Tagetes lucida (sunflower
family)]
There are three common varieties of tarragon. French Tarragon is
greatly to be preferred but is rarely available in the U.S. because it's so
hard to grow. Not only can it not be propagated from seed but it can't grow
long in the same place because it poisons its own soil. It must be propegated
by root division in the spring and planted in fresh soil. The leaves of
French Tarragon are whiter and narrower than those of the Russian.
Russian Tarragon (photo) is more closely realated to the wild form
(originally from Siberia) and is greatly inferior in flavor. Unfortunately
it's what you'll always find in the stores because it's much easier to grow.
Russian Tarragon leaves are wider and a fresher green color than those of
French Tarragon.
Mexican Tarragon grows well in relatively warm areas and is most used
in the southern U.S.. The leaves are a dark shiny green and relatively short
and wide compared to other tarragons. It produces prominent orange flowers.
Tarragon is used primarily in French cuisine where it is an essential
ingredient of Bérnaise Sauce and mixed with other herbs (typically
chives, chervel and parsley) for the boquet called "fines herbes". Because
dried tarragon is useless the flavor is often preserved in vinegar (tarragon
vinegar).
Thyme - [Zatar (farsi & other),
Thymus vulgaris (Mint family)]
While there are over 300 species of thyme, nearly all those of culinary
use are varieties of T. vulgaris, a native of southern Europe.
Thyme is much used as a flavoring for meat dishes and soup stocks. Thyme
dries relatively well so it is often used as a dried herb.
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