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Almost Everywhere
[Hibi (Philippine); Ebi (Indonesia); Ebi (Japan (fresh or dried)); Kung Haeng
(Thai); Tom Kho (Viet)]
Dried Shrimp are used throughout Asia, Mexico, Central and South
America, much of Africa and Louisiana in the US. In most cases they are
ground to powder or soaked and mashed to paste for use in recipes, but they
may simply be fried whole (often in Africa) and can be eaten as is as a
snack (Louisiana). Those sold in Mexican markets can be quite large (3
inches or so) but smaller are more common. In Korean markets they are
sold in a number of sizes, but none as large as the Mexican. The photo
samples, from a Korean market, are up to about 2 inches, about midsize.
Burma
Burmese shrimp paste, Pazun Ngapi, is said by some sources to be
much like the Thai, but a little softer. Other sources say it's more like
the Malaysian. Well, Burma shares a long border with Thailand so I'd say
Thai shrimp paste is suitable, but the Malaysian kind might also be used.
China
Hom ha / Hay koh is used in southern coastal
China for stir fries, with vegetables (particularly Ong Choy) and pork,
but not a lot elsewhere in China. It is ground smooth, darker, more
pungent, less shrimpy and saltier than most shrimp sauces but not so dark
and salty as the Malaysian. The photo sample is Koon Chun brand, made in
Hong Kong and widely available in Southern California.
Indonesia
Terasi is made similar to Belacan (and may even be labeled "Belacan")
but varies buy region of manufacture as to exact composition. Color ranges
from reddish-purple to dark brown and it may be made of a mixture of
shrimp, fish and vegetables. It is pressed into blocks, and as with
Belacan it is roasted before use - wrapping in foil and holding over a
burner flame until aromatic works well. It is also sometimes available
as pre-roasted slices individually wrapped, as in the photo. This product
can be kept at room temperature for many months if tightly wrapped and
kept dry. You'll want it tightly wrapped in any case to confine the
distinctive odor. It's best kept in a tightly capped jar.
Korea
Saeujeot is an important ingredient in Korean cuisine, these shrimp
re whole and very salty but only mildly fermented so they have very much
less flavor (and aroma) than the similar looking Malaysian Cincalok.
Saeujeot is used as a general condiment and seasoning, sometimes in
place of plain salt, and particularly in kimchi.
Malaysia
Cincalok (say chin-cha-lo) is a pinkish paste of whole tiny
shrimp, salt and rice flour popular in Malaysia as a dipping sauce mixed with
lime juice and shallots (Sambal
Cincalok). It is also used in marinades for pork, as an ingredient in
omelets and in steamed vegetable recipes. A required ingredient for
Nonya cooking in Singapore, it's sold in glass bottles. It has a notably
pungent aroma and taste, considered an acquired taste even by some
Malaysians.
Malaysia
Petis Udang is a black shrimp paste with the consistency of
molasses and made from fermented shrimp, salt, sugar and flour, similar
to Chinese shrimp sauce. It is served as a condiment and added to soups.
Malaysia
Blachan is tiny shrimp mashed and fermented for a couple
of months. It is then fried and pressed into cakes. When used, it is first
roasted - wrapping in foil and holding over a burner flame until aromatic
works well. This product can be kept at room temperature for many months if
tightly wrapped and kept dry. You'll want it tightly wrapped in any case to
confine the distinctive odor. I keep mine tightly sealed in a glass jar.
I have also found this product "pre-roasted", consisting of 1/4 inch thick
slices from the block individually wrapped.
Philippines
Bagoong Alamang (also spelled Bagoong Aramang) is tiny shrimp or
krill salted, fermented dried and crushed into a paste. The pink version is
as fermented, but the color may vary because it is enhanced with Red Dye #3,
sometimes more than excessively.. The brown version, Bagoong Alamang Guisado,
is the pink fried in oil with vinegar, salt, sugar, garlic and onions.
Bagoong Guisado is made in regular, sweet and spicy versions. To be honest,
the pink version dyes food such a horrid unappetizing color I recommend
sacrificing authenticity and using shrimp paste from some other culture.
All versions are also used as table condiments.
Thailand
Gkabpi, also spelled Kapi, is still made in fishing villages
and collected by agents for packing companies. Basically it's just whole
tiny shrimp salted and dried (larger shrimp will be fermented before drying).
The packing company may add other ingredients, typically: soybean oil, garlic,
salt, pepper, paprika oleoresin. It is often roasted before use - wrapping in
foil and holding over a burner flame until aromatic works well.
Buying: Pantainorasingh and Tra Chang are quality brands widely
available in the US. Pantainorasingh is the brand I usually have on hand.
The small 3.2 ounce jar is adequate for most of us. While properly made
gkabpi may last for weeks at room temperature it's best to refrigerate it
once opened where it will keep indefinitely.
Vegetarian
Vegetarian shrimp paste, often called Vegan Belacan is said to
exist, and be made of fermented soybeans and salt. Just use Thai Yellow
Bean Sauce which is easily available and made of fermented soybeans and
salt.
Vietnam - Mam tom / Mam ruoc
Mam Ruoc / Mam Tom is made similarly to Thai Gkabpi but the
process is a bit more complex and it ends up much darker and a more purple
color. It's generally ground smooth and packed in jars or small tubs.
Mam tom is the name in North Vietnam, Mam ruoc in Central and South Vietnam.
The photo sample is made by Gia Minh in Saigon (yes I know it's Ho Chi Minh
City now, but, like Leningrad, that will pass.
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