Vinegars & Sours
Sourness is one of the basic flavors we are perceive and is the result of acidity. It can provide lightness and interest to food that would otherwise be heavy or bland - note the radical difference adding a little lemon juice to a bean soup makes. Of course sourness can also be an indicator that food is going bad.
|
©2006 Clove Garden |
|
VinegarsVinegars are made by fermentation from many foods that have a high sugar or starch content. Fruits and other sugar sources go through a double or triple fermentation: from sugar to alcohol (by yeast) then alcohol to acetic acid (by bacteria). Starchy foods go through either malting (barley) or a starch to sugar fermentation (rice), then sugar to alcohol, alcohol to acetic acid. High grade vinegars will then be aged in wooden barrels or pottery jars to mature the flavors. With the exception of White Distilled Vinegar, vinegars carry a distinctive flavor from the ingredients used, and are affected by the quality of those ingredients, so taste will not be uniform brand to brand. Many health and healing claims are made for vinegars, particularly apple cider vinegar, but actual medical research seems to be pretty scarce so the evidence is all "hear-say". Vinegars. like oils, are very important cooking ingredients and a well prepared kitchen stocks Apple Cider, Rice, Balsamic (Industrial), White Distilled and Wine vinegars, with others added according to individual taste and ethnicity of the cuisine. Apple Cider - Made from fermented apples, this vinegar is quite popular in the U.S. but beware! most of what tries to pass as "Apple Cider Vinegar" in the stores is nothing of the sort - look carefully and you will find it's made from white distilled vinegar with apple juice added - "apple flavored". Even the leading brand, Heinz, is real in quarts and fake in larger containers. Apple cider vinegar has a large cult following among the health concious, but little actual medical research has been done so the health claims are called "hear-say". In any case, it's not likely to do you any harm, and many say it will help. Cider vinegar is harsh for some applications so I often cut it 50% with
Balsamic (Industrial) for use in salads and for dipping.
Balsamic, "Industrial" - A cheap imitation of "True Balsamic", commonly made from wine vinegar, concentrated grape must and carmel coloring. "Industrial" has the advantage of being priced to allow actual use in food rather than as an object of worship. White Balsamic is a version that doesn't even try to look like real balsamic. It's made of white wine vinegar and grape must with no carmel color added and filtering to get rid of any color the grapes had. Cleaner taste than regular Industrials. "Industrial" balsamic production centers around Modena Italy where the
true balsamic is made. Many different formulas are used, so brands vary -
just taste them and pick ones you like. Actually, "industrial" is better
than "true" for many recipes, and is the most commonly used variety in Modena.
Balsamic, "True"
"Balsamics" made by more or less traditional methods (usually starting with wine and must rather than just cooked must, but given a good aging in wood barrels) not qualifying for the special bottle are also available, with prices ranging from $15 to over $100 for an 8-oz (250-ml) bottle) These vinegars are often put up in fancy "gourmet" bottles, but never the "one true bottle". Cane - Made wherever sugar cane is grown. Cane sugar is fermented into rum, and rum into vinegar. Varies greatly by brand. A good source is groceries serving a Philippine community. Chinese Vinegars
Chinkiang Vinegar - see Chinese Vinegars. Coconut vinegar is used in India and Southeast Asia. It's mild with a somewhat musty flavor. The best source is groceries serving a Philippine community. Date vinegar is popular in the Near East. Flavored Vinegars - These are generally white or red wine vinegar with herbs and spices added to the bottle so their flavors infuse the vinegar. Taragon vinegar is probably the best known. Since the flavor of taragon doesn't survive drying, vinegar is a way to deliver that flavor when fresh taragon isn't available. Fruit Vinegars - Since vinegar can be made from anything with sufficient sugar, and since it takes on flavors from the ingredients from which it is made, the field is wide open for production of specialty vinegars. Pomegranate, Orange and Rasberry vinegars are typical. Pineapple is nice for salads. Grape - see Raisin Vinegar. Ilocos vinegar - [sukang Ilocos]
Buying: restaurant supply stores. Raisin - [Grape Vinegar]
Rice Vinegar - [Rice Wine Vinegar] - In the U.S. this generally means Japanese or Japanese style white rice vinegar of "Industrial" quality. See also Chinese Vinegars for red, black and white versions). Rice vinegar is made by fermenting rice into beer which ferments into vinegar (though it's a single continuous process that doesn't make drinkable sake).
In Japan top grade rice vinegar is made in small batches in clay jars, but that commonly available in the U.S. is, as with Balsamic Vinegar, "industrial" grade. Still pretty good for general use though and has the advantage of being afordable by mortals. Asian groceries may carry "Gourmet" or "Aged" versions made in Taiwan or China that cost about twice as much as the same brand's "regular" - worth the price for some dipping and dressing applications. White Distilled - made from grain alcohol (cheap vodka), distilled for purity and diluted with water to 5% acetic acid. Purely an industrial product, but a good choice for many uses (in the water for poaching eggs, for instance) because of it's purity. White Distilled Vinegar also finds a wide variety of household cleaning and deodorizing uses. Wine Vinegar: - As the name implies, these vinegars are made from wine and vary with the quality of the wine used. Once again we have a contrast between traditional (good wine and aged in oak barrels) and industrial production which is reflected in the price. High grade wine vinegars are made in Italy, Spain and in the wine growing regions of California.
Other Souring AgentsLemon Juice br> Green Mango
Sour Plum
Sumac
Tamarind
Umeboshi Vinegar Technically not a vinegar (it contains salt), but a pink brine with a sour-fruity taste. A by-product from manufacturing Japanese pickled plums (umeboshi) it can be used much as a vinegar would (keeping the salt in mind). It's good for salad dressings and especially for flavoring steamed vegetables. Umeboshi Vinegar has been adopted by the Michio Kushi Macrobiotics sect and by several other health food sects as a miracle ingredient. Verjuice
Not vinegar, but used in a similar way, verjuice is the juice of unripe
grapes. It is essential for reconstructing Medieval and Renaisance recipes
from before vinegar production was reliable. It used to be almost
impossible to find in the U.S. but is now being turned out by California
wineries. Links to Vinegar Sites
|