Oils Vinegars & Sours

Sourness is one of the basic flavors we are perceive and is the result of acidity. It can provide lightness and interest to food that would otherwise be heavy or bland - note the radical difference adding a little lemon juice to a bean soup makes. Of course sourness can also be an indicator that food is going bad.



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©2006 Clove Garden


Vinegars

Vinegars are made by fermentation from many foods that have a high sugar or starch content. Fruits and other sugar sources go through a double or triple fermentation: from sugar to alcohol (by yeast) then alcohol to acetic acid (by bacteria). Starchy foods go through either malting (barley) or a starch to sugar fermentation (rice), then sugar to alcohol, alcohol to acetic acid. High grade vinegars will then be aged in wooden barrels or pottery jars to mature the flavors.

With the exception of White Distilled Vinegar, vinegars carry a distinctive flavor from the ingredients used, and are affected by the quality of those ingredients, so taste will not be uniform brand to brand.

Many health and healing claims are made for vinegars, particularly apple cider vinegar, but actual medical research seems to be pretty scarce so the evidence is all "hear-say".

Vinegars. like oils, are very important cooking ingredients and a well prepared kitchen stocks Apple Cider, Rice, Balsamic (Industrial), White Distilled and Wine vinegars, with others added according to individual taste and ethnicity of the cuisine.

Apple Cider - Made from fermented apples, this vinegar is quite popular in the U.S. but beware! most of what tries to pass as "Apple Cider Vinegar" in the stores is nothing of the sort - look carefully and you will find it's made from white distilled vinegar with apple juice added - "apple flavored". Even the leading brand, Heinz, is real in quarts and fake in larger containers.

Apple cider vinegar has a large cult following among the health concious, but little actual medical research has been done so the health claims are called "hear-say". In any case, it's not likely to do you any harm, and many say it will help.

Cider vinegar is harsh for some applications so I often cut it 50% with Balsamic (Industrial) for use in salads and for dipping.
Source: Heinz at local groceries (quart size only), other brands available in some locations.

Balsamic, "Industrial" - A cheap imitation of "True Balsamic", commonly made from wine vinegar, concentrated grape must and carmel coloring. "Industrial" has the advantage of being priced to allow actual use in food rather than as an object of worship.

White Balsamic is a version that doesn't even try to look like real balsamic. It's made of white wine vinegar and grape must with no carmel color added and filtering to get rid of any color the grapes had. Cleaner taste than regular Industrials.

"Industrial" balsamic production centers around Modena Italy where the true balsamic is made. Many different formulas are used, so brands vary - just taste them and pick ones you like. Actually, "industrial" is better than "true" for many recipes, and is the most commonly used variety in Modena.
Sources: grocery, specialty and gourmet stores, $3 to $20.

Balsamic, "True"
bottle - Tradizionale Vecchio (12 years) and Tradizionale Extra Vecchio (25 years) are made in Modena Italy from cooked grape must and are aged in a series of barrels made of different woods. Production is certified by a consortium and it comes only in a special shaped bottle shown. A 6-tablespoon (100-ml) bottle of Extra Vecchio 25-year is only a little over $100, but if you want the 50-year, it's gonna cost ya.
Sources: V6 Parma Shop.

"Balsamics" made by more or less traditional methods (usually starting with wine and must rather than just cooked must, but given a good aging in wood barrels) not qualifying for the special bottle are also available, with prices ranging from $15 to over $100 for an 8-oz (250-ml) bottle) These vinegars are often put up in fancy "gourmet" bottles, but never the "one true bottle".

Cane - Made wherever sugar cane is grown. Cane sugar is fermented into rum, and rum into vinegar. Varies greatly by brand. A good source is groceries serving a Philippine community.

Chinese Vinegars
Chinese vinegar comes in three basic varieties, Black, Red and White, all made from rice, but the darker may include other ingredients as well. Quality variations for Chinese products are extreme. Check the ingredient labeling but be aware it is often as wrong as the grammar in the instructions you get with Chinese made products. Best strategy, find a good brand and stick with it.

  • Black Vinegar [Brown Rice Vinegar, Chinkiang Vinegar, Chekiang vinegar, Chenkong vinegar, Zhejiang vinegar] is particularly popular in southern China. Brands made in Chinkiang (Zhejiang) province are considered the best. Like Balsamic it is dark and has a deep flavor but the taste is very different. A reasonable substitute can be made from Chinese Red Vinegar with a little sugar added. Black vinegar is often used as a dipping sauce. Gold Plum is often recommended as the best brand of Chinkiang and is made from water, glutinous rice and salt only.
  • Red Vinegar [Red Rice Vinegar] has a more subtile flavor than black. It is used as a dipping sauce and in soups, with noodles and in seafood dishes. Pearl River Bridge and Koon Chun are frequently recommeded as top brands.
  • White Vinegar [Rice Wine Vinegar] is similar to the Japanese and is used in stir frys, pickles and sweet-and-sour dishes. It is closer to distilled white vinegar than the others but milder and with a more sophisticated flavor. it is available in regulare and "Gourmet Aged" grades at markets serving an East Asia community.

Chinkiang Vinegar - see Chinese Vinegars.

Coconut vinegar is used in India and Southeast Asia. It's mild with a somewhat musty flavor. The best source is groceries serving a Philippine community.

Date vinegar is popular in the Near East.

Flavored Vinegars - These are generally white or red wine vinegar with herbs and spices added to the bottle so their flavors infuse the vinegar. Taragon vinegar is probably the best known. Since the flavor of taragon doesn't survive drying, vinegar is a way to deliver that flavor when fresh taragon isn't available.

Fruit Vinegars - Since vinegar can be made from anything with sufficient sugar, and since it takes on flavors from the ingredients from which it is made, the field is wide open for production of specialty vinegars. Pomegranate, Orange and Rasberry vinegars are typical. Pineapple is nice for salads.

Grape - see Raisin Vinegar.

Ilocos vinegar - [sukang Ilocos]
This famous Philippine vinegar is made in the northern provence of Ilocos out of sugar cane with some
samak (Macaranga) leaf added. It is dark and pungent and used as an ingredient in Vigan Longanisa sausage as well as in many other regional recipes, as a dip and for medicinal purposes (disinfectant and on the fohead for fevers). Industrial Balsamic vinegar has been suggested as a substitute when the Ilocos product is not available.

Malt is the premier dipping vinegar (as in English fish and chips) because its effect is less harsh than other common vinegars. Malt vinegar is properly made by malting (sprouting) barley (and perhaps other grains) to turn the starches to sugar. The malt is then fermented into ale, and the ale fermented into vinegar.
Buying: restaurant supply stores.

Raisin - [Grape Vinegar]
Wine vinegar made in Islamic countries where you'd roast in Hell for eternity if Alah knew you were making wine - and you can't make vinegar without making alcohol first. Some of it's pretty good wine vinegar too. Somehow the Turks got a special dispensation from Alah because they make and consume alcoholic beverages, but for the rest of Islam it's forbidden.

Rice Vinegar - [Rice Wine Vinegar] - In the U.S. this generally means Japanese or Japanese style white rice vinegar of "Industrial" quality. See also Chinese Vinegars for red, black and white versions). Rice vinegar is made by fermenting rice into beer which ferments into vinegar (though it's a single continuous process that doesn't make drinkable sake).

In Japan top grade rice vinegar is made in small batches in clay jars, but that commonly available in the U.S. is, as with Balsamic Vinegar, "industrial" grade. Still pretty good for general use though and has the advantage of being afordable by mortals. Asian groceries may carry "Gourmet" or "Aged" versions made in Taiwan or China that cost about twice as much as the same brand's "regular" - worth the price for some dipping and dressing applications.

White Distilled - made from grain alcohol (cheap vodka), distilled for purity and diluted with water to 5% acetic acid. Purely an industrial product, but a good choice for many uses (in the water for poaching eggs, for instance) because of it's purity. White Distilled Vinegar also finds a wide variety of household cleaning and deodorizing uses.

Wine Vinegar: - As the name implies, these vinegars are made from wine and vary with the quality of the wine used. Once again we have a contrast between traditional (good wine and aged in oak barrels) and industrial production which is reflected in the price. High grade wine vinegars are made in Italy, Spain and in the wine growing regions of California.


Red, White:
General purpose wine vinegars varying greatly in quality. Major brand name products from American manufacturere are generally the bottom of the barrel, so to speak. Best to select a brand you like that you can get consistently 1 litre bottles.

Champaign, Merlot, Cabernet, etc:
Generally traditionally made wine vinegars exhibiting the qualities of the wines they are made from. These are not common in the U.S. except in gourmet emporiums.

Chianti Vinegar - an excellent and quite distinctive red wine vinegar (at least the brands I've tried have been). It is made of Chianti D.O.C.G wine and is generally shipped at an acidity of around 7.5%, considerably higher than most wine vinegars so adjust recipes to suit.

Sherry Vinegar:
Once this was given away by embarassed sherry wine makers when a batch went bad, then somebody decided it could be sold. Now it's considered the king of wine vinegars, is highly prized and will carry a certificate of origin logo. It's also more expensive than other wine vinegars. Like balsamic, it goes through a series of barrels, but that's in the wine stage. It will have further aging in barrels after being converted to vinegar. Caution: sherry vinegar is usually about 8% (8°) acidity, considerably stronger than other vinegars which tend to average around 5%.


Other Souring Agents

Lemon Juice br>

Lime Juice

Citric Acid

Green Mango
A popular souring agent in India, particularly in dry regions where lemons and limes cannot be had. It has the advantage of being dry and easily stored and transported.

Sour Plum
Purple sour plums are the sourness of choice in Georgia

Sumac
A very popular souring agent in the Near East, sold alone and as a component of herb mixes, particularly with thyme (Zatar). Caution: Don't try to make this at home. American Sumac is not the same variety and can cause alergic reactions and poisoning.

Tamarind
Tamarind is a large tree-born bean pod. The large brown seeds are surrounded with a stick paste that is both sweet and sour. It is popular in recipes throughout Asia and in Africa where the tree originated, and now in Mexico and Central America as well. See Tamarind for more information on this important tree.

Umeboshi Vinegar Technically not a vinegar (it contains salt), but a pink brine with a sour-fruity taste. A by-product from manufacturing Japanese pickled plums (umeboshi) it can be used much as a vinegar would (keeping the salt in mind). It's good for salad dressings and especially for flavoring steamed vegetables.

Umeboshi Vinegar has been adopted by the Michio Kushi Macrobiotics sect and by several other health food sects as a miracle ingredient.

Verjuice Not vinegar, but used in a similar way, verjuice is the juice of unripe grapes. It is essential for reconstructing Medieval and Renaisance recipes from before vinegar production was reliable. It used to be almost impossible to find in the U.S. but is now being turned out by California wineries.
Sources: Clove, Mid Eastern markets, gourmet stores. - or make your own by grinding up and squeezing unripe grapes (you can get those, in season, from groceries serving a Near Eastern community - freeze until needed).


Links to Vinegar Sites