Contents
History & General Information
Most of our well known spices are grown in tropical coastal regions of
India, Southeast Asia and Indonesia. From ancient times they have been a
major article of trade to Europe and the Mediterranean and were until
recently horrifyingly expensive due to monopoly control.
The spice trade was a major factor in European development of sailing ship
technology that made world conquest and the colonial era possible - and which,
incidentally broke the monopolies that had controled trade resulting in
lower prices. Today, all except labor intensive safron are quite affordable.
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Working with Spices
Buying & Storing Spices
The most important factor in successful spice usage is freshness. Flavor
depends on oils which will evaporate and/or turn rancid in time. This process
is accelerated by many times when the spice is ground.
The best place to buy spices (other than from Clove Garden) is from an
ethnic gorcer or importer who services a large community that uses those
spices. Supermarket spices may have bee years getting to you. Comparing
ground termeric from your local supermarket with that from an Indian grocer
is a revalation.
Since ground spices degrade so rapidly it is better to buy them whole
and grind as needed.A small whirrling blade coffee grinder does a remarkable
job of grinding spices in just seconds. Gun it a few times, then turn it
upside down and whack it with the palm of your hand to shake the spice into
the lid.
Store spices, whole or ground, in tightly sealed containers in a cool
dark place. Direct sunlight is very destructive to spices. Buy in quantities
that will be used up in about a year for whole spices, 6 months or less for
ground.
Black pepper declines very rapidly after grinding but is used so
frequently I don't want to grind it every time. I grind a couple teaspoons
every week and keep it in one of those ultra-tiny "must be good for something"
gift basket jam jars to be spooned out as needed.
Roasting Spices
Particularly in India and Southeast Asia
spices are prepared for grinding into spice mixtures by dry roasting. The
Indian tava (also used for making flat bread) is the traditional
pan for this. It is slightly concave and works great on a clay stove
or over a bucket of charcoal, but it doesn't work on our gas burners or
electric elements. The absolutely perfect pan to use is the Lodge L90G3
10" round griddle. Both items are shown in the photo, though our wood handled
tava is a bit "upscale" compared to what you'd find in an average Indian
household.
When roasting spices, do them one at a time because their timing is so
different. Heat them stirring frequently until they start releasing their
characteristic fragrance and start to darken just a touch, then pour out into
a bowl to cool. I always start with cumin since it is so distinctive it'll
let me know when the pan is hot enough for the others. I also do this step
before handling dried chilis or I may not be able to smell anything.
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Varieties
Every time our government is thrown out of a country it invaded or has
been meddling in all the colaborators move to Los Angles and open
restaurants. Naturally they send home for ingredients as soon as they can
and specialty grocers are soon opened. The happy result is that nearly
every spice used in the world is available here.
Amchur, Amchur Powder - unrip fruit of
the mango tree, available as slices and powder. Called for by many
recipes from northern India, it is very sour with a slight sweetness and just
a bit resinous. Use it for marinades where it has the same tenderizing
effect as lemon juice (1 teaspoon amchur powder is equivalent to 3 tablespoons
lemon juice) and in curries. Because it's light, dry and does not spoil easily
as lemons and lemon juice do it's more portable in hot climates.
Anise -[Pimpinella anisum]
The fruits of this potent member of the carrot family are used to
provide a "licorice" flavor to many drinks and candies, though it is
unrelated to the root from which "true licorice" is obtained. In the U.S.
anise is used mostly in cookies and other baked goods while the related
but less "licoricy" fennel fruits are used more for cooking.
The bulbs and fronds sold as "Anise" or "Sweet Anise" in the groceries
are actually Fennel. See also
Star Anise for another unrelated spice with a similar
flavor. Anise fades rapidly if ground so you should keep whole "seeds"
(actually a dried fruit) and grind them as needed.
Annatto - [Achiote (sp)]
Primarily used to infuse oil with a
red-gold color and subtle warm flavor, as well as giving an orange/yellow
color to cheeses, butter and othe food ingredients. Particularly used in
Cuban, Filipino, Portuguese, Mexican, Puerto Rican, and Jamaican Cooking.
Asafoetida - [Hing (india),
Ferula assa-foetida (Parsley family)]
Dried sap from roots of this parsley family herb native to Central Asia
was used in Europe from the time Alexander until the 16th century. It was
important in Roman cuisine as a substitute for Silphium
which was very expensive. It is still much used in India, particularly as
a substitute for onions and garlic by Indian Brahmins for whom those are
forbidden. The flavor is not the same but it adds a similar sophistication.
Asafoetida is used mainly with vegetable dishes but it can also add an
interesting flavor to meat.
Food writers have struggled to describe the foul smell of the raw resin -
struggled because food writers aren't familiar with SAE 90W hypoid gear
oil which contains similar sulphur compounds. Fortunately the odor is
subdued by cooking. This product is sold in two versions, pure resin (which
may be in powdered form) and Hing powder, which has powdered resin cut with
rice flour and other substances. I strongly recommend the pure resin.
Asafoetida resin must be fried in hot oil briefly before other
ingredients are added to the pan. For pure resin powder this is just a couple
of seconds but will be a little more for coarser resin. Hing powder is
supposed to not need this step but I disagree.
Caraway, Black - Generally refers to
Nigella - there is no Black Caraway.
Cassia Bark - []
An aromatic bark interchangeable with (and often confused with)
Cinnamon See the cinnamon article for more details and
how to tell them apart.
Charnushka (U.S. Armenian) - Nigella
Chili Peppers
Another important and prolific member of the Nightshade family, chili peppers
originated in Central America and have spread throughout the world. They are
so important and there are so many varieties, we have a separate (and
extensive) Chili Pepper page of their own.
Cinnamon - []
Cloves - [Nelke (german),
laung (hindi), Syzygium aromaticum]
Flower buds of a myrtle family tree native to Indonesia, harvested and
dried before opening. Cloves have been in great demand in Europe since the
Roman Empire and were very expensive considering they had to come all the
way from Indonesia. They were not grown elsewhere until recently. Despite
demand abroad, cloves have never been an important spice in Indonesia,
where the major use is in cigarettes.
Coriander - []
Another member of the parsley
family. What are called "coriander seeds" are actually the dried fruits.
The fresh plant is called Celantro, but the leaves are almost never used
dried. Indian coriander produces larger, lighter colored and softer
fruits than European coriander.
Cumin [Jera (ind)]
Cumin is a member of the parsley family. What are called "cumin seeds" are
actually the dried fruit and contain the seeds.
White Cumin - the regular cumin, used in India to differentiate
from Black Cumin.
Black Cumin [Kali Jera (ind)] - a cumin used for some particular
spicings in northern India. The seeds are much smaller than white cumin and
the flavor much more aromatic (and the cost much higher). Substituting with
White Cumin is distinctly imperfect.
Cumin, Black (improper) - see Nigella
Curry Leaf
Leaves of the tree Chalcas koenigii, a member of the citrus family
and essential to authenticity in the cuisines of southern and central India
and Sri Lanka. There is no known substitute so if
you don't have them you just have to leave them out. They have an aromatic
and slightly camphorous taste and are generally used in small quantity, fried
in oil with the cumin or mustard seeds before adding the onions or other
main ingredients.
Curry leaves dry well but lose a great deal in drying. OK for some spice
mixes if freshly dried but otherwise a poor substitute for fresh. If you
don't have a ready source we recommend buying some fresh ones, stripping
the leaves off the stems and freezing them in small bags. They turn dark,
but they're going to turn dark fried in oil anyway.
Fennel - [Sweet cumin, Foeniculum vulgare
(parsley family)]
Fennel is unusual in being used as a spice (dried fruits) as an herb
(fronds) and as a vegetable (swolen stem
bases). It is native to the Medeterranian but grows easily in any temperate
climate. The yellow-beige fruits (left in photo) are now used as a dried spice
through most of the world for flavoring fish and meat, soups, sweets, drinks
and curries. The fruits are similar to Anise but
notably sweeter and more licorish like. The variety used for spice is not
the same variety used as a vegetable but they are of the same species.
Lucknow Fennel, a variety grown in northern India, has much smaller
seeds with an even sweeter more licorishy flavor. This fennel is called for in
many dishes originating in northern India and can be found in Indian
groceries (at a much higher price than regular fennel).
Fenugreek [Methi, Trigonella
foenum-graecum (Bean family)]
This bitter aromatic bean, tiny and angular compared to common beans,
is used extensively in India, where it is generally roasted to bring out the
flavors before grinding for spice mixes like garam masalla. It is also used
in Greece, the Near East, Persia and Southeast Asia.
Fenugreek Leaves are also used as
a slightly bitter fresh herb in the cooking of Persia, parts of India and the
Near East.
Five Spice Powder
This mixture is used all over China and to a very lesser extent in
Southeast Asia. It properly contains Sichuan Peppercorns,
Star Anise, Casia Bark (or
Cinnamon), Cloves and
Fennel all in equal quantity. Sometimes other spices
are added and for a short time recently ginger and some other spices were
substituted for the essential Sichuan Peppercorns for versions exported to
the U.S. due to a USDA embargo, now conditionally lifted.
As with other spices, Five Spice is best mixed from the whole spices
and ground in a spice grinder when needed. It is most used in batters for
coating deep fried meats and in marinades for meats.
Kalonji (India) - Nigella
Khas Khas - see Poppy Seed, White
Mustard Seed
Yellow Mustard Seed is the familiar European variety most of which
goes into the manufacture of the "prepared mustard" we buy in jars and
squeeze bottles.
Black Mustard Seed is always called for in recipes from India and
farther east. It's smaller than European yellow mustard seeds but the flavor
is pretty similar. An interesting use is as a temperature gage, you put a
few seeds in your pan with the oil and when they start to pop your oil is
hot enough. If you don't have them, susbstitute yellow mustard seeds -
slightly different but close enough.
Mustard seed ground to a powder has little flavor until it is mixed
with water and let stand for about 10 minutes. An enzyme reaction produces
the familiar mustard pungency. Mustard prepared this way loses its
pungency quickly so is usually discarded at the end of the day.
Mahlab [(variously spelled), Mahlepi
(Greece), St Lucie
Cherry Prunus Mahaleb]
The oval kernel from the stones of a small black cherry tree that grows wild in
the Mediteerranian region and Turkey, and now cultivated in Iran. Iran is
the largest producer with Turkey second. It is used particularly in Greece,
Turkey, Armenia, Iraq and Iran but also elsewhere in the Near East and Mid
East. Purchase it as whole kernels and crush or grind as needed since it
degrades quickly once ground. It is used to flavor baked goods, pastries
and sometimes Nabulsi Cheese.
Nigella - [Onion Seed (improper),
Black Caraway (improper), Black Cumin (improper), Charnushka (U.S. Armenian),
Kalonji (India)]
It looks very much like onion seeds, but is not
at all related and has a very distinctive flavor. It is mixed into Armenian
string cheese and on the outside of Nabulsi cheese as well as on some Jewish
baked goods. Nigella is held to have strong medicinal properties for a number
of illnesses.
Panch phoron (Bengal) - a mix of 5 spices in equal part -
nigella, fenugreek,
cumin, black mustard seed and
fennel. Panch phoron and mustard oil together provide
the distinctive flavor of Bangali cooking. The spice mix is always fried in
mustard oil before use to bring out the flavors and is generally used
unground.
Pepper / Peppercorns - Black, White, Green, Red
- [Piper nigrum]
Pepper originated on the Malabar (west) coast of India, but major
plantations were later established in Indonesia for trade with the Dutch. It
is now grown also in Brazil and several South East Asian countries. Pepper
has never been popular in Indonesia despite being grown there, but has long
been used in India and parts of Southeas Asia, particularly before chilis
were brought from South America. In Europe it has been the most important
spice since the Roman Empire and was extremely expensive until the 18th
century due to trade monopolies.
In more recent times pepper has spread to just about every cuisine,
particularly since the price has fallen so much and growing area has
increased. Pepper use has increased in Southeast Asia due to it being grown
there now and Thailand has taken a liking to fresh green peppercorns.
Peppercorns of all colors are from the same piper nigrum pepper vine,
just picked at different stages of ripeness and processed differently.
Black Peppercorns (center) are berries taken just before they are
mature and sun dried with the green outer skin and flesh still surrounding
the seed. The closer to mature at harvest the better the product but the more
risk so a higher cost.
Tillicherry pepper is the highest grade of black pepper as the
berries are picked at the ripest point they can still be made into black
pepper - actually tillicherry is more a dark brown.
White Peppercorns (left) are fully matured red berries that are
processed so the outer skin and flesh are rotted off. This provides the full
pungency but little of the unique pepper flavor. White pepper is used mainly
in European cooking to keep white sauces pure white - considered important
in the late 19th and early 20th centuries when "purity = white" was as
important as "natural" is today.
Green Peppercorns are either fresh (available only in pepper
growing areas), force dried (right in photo), pickled, or packed in brine
(top in photo). If you have a recipe for fresh green peppercorns and don't
know sombody at a pepper plantation you can used brined (a pretty good
substute in my opinion) or you can soak force dried green peppercorns in
water to reconstitute them (not the same but better than none). Pickled
green peppercorns are considered too acidic for most recipes. Note:
the brined, being low acid, must be refrigerated immediately after opening
or they will turn black). Dried green peppercorns are the correct item to
use in Western dishes like pepper steak that use large amounts of peppercorns.
Red Peppercorns are fully ripe with skin on. They are only
available pickled much beyond the pepper plantations and are very rare even
then.
Few spices fade as quickly as peppercorns once ground, so you should
always grind fresh. That can be a hassle so I grind up about 1/2 T every
week and store it tightly capped in one of those tiny "must be useful for
something" jars "sampler set" jams and jellies come in.
Peppercorns, Pink -
[Schinus terebinthifolius (cashew family)]
Fruit of the Brazilian pepper tree is completely unrelated to black,
white, green, red or Sichuan peppercorns. It's used both as a spice and as
a medicinal in the Caribbean and as a spice by trendy California chefs.
The tree grows agressively in many areas but cautions should be observed.
The main source for the spice trade is the island of Réunion while
peppercorns
grown in Florida are reputed to cause a mild alergic reaction (irritated
throat) in some people. Peppercorns from the trees trying to take over my
yard in Southern California seem to be fine.
Peppercorns, Sichuan (Szechuan) -
[Flower Pepper, Prickly Ash (eng),
jiao (china) Zanthoxylum piperitum, Z. simulans and others
(citrus family)]
Dried fruits of the Chinese prickley ash tree. These "peppercorns" are
essential to the famous Sichuan cuisine of China and a similar fruit is
important in Nepal. They are quite unique with a remarkably sharp, citrusy
flavor and a numbing anesthetic effect on the tongue. Other countries have
related species with flavors that vary more or less from the Chinese. Some of
these are listed on the Detail Page.
Peppercorns, Tasmanian -
[Tasmannia lanceolata]
These "peppercorns" look much like dried black peppercorns but have a
pungency and numbing effect on the tongue similar to Sichuan peppercorns.
A related species, dorrigo pepper (Tasmannia stipitata), has
similar properties but it is dried leaves that are used rather than fruits.
Poppy Seeds
There are two kinds of poppyseeds sold on the spice market, Black and White.
They are imperfectly interchangeable due to color, taste and other
characteristics.
Black Poppy Seeds are commonly used in Europe and the U.S. sprinkled
on baked goods. These come from the infamous opium poppy but contain no
significant amount of the alkalai which has to be gathered long before the
seeds are mature enough to harvist. Poppyseed is also used as an oil seed
but in the U.S. it's used for slow drying artist's oil paints rather than
for cooking.
White Poppy Seeds [Khas Khas (India)] are always called for in
Indian cooking. They are used roasted and ground primarily as a thickening
agent in light colored sauces. They come from a line
of poppies specifically bred for these mild light colored seeds.
Sambaar Podi [sambar powder]
A spice mix used in the south of India, particularly in Tamilnadu on the
east coast. It's a mix of
roasted urad dal (tiny lentils), cumin,
coriander, fenugreek and
black pepper,
optionally mustard seeds, chiles and
asafetida. It's used along with curry
leaves to flavor the thin lentil curries served with pancake like bread
(dosai) in the region.
Silphion - [(Parsley Family)]
Silphion was grown in North Africa when it was the breadbasket of the
Roman empire, but was rendered extinct by the desertification resulting
from poor agricultural practices. While the leaves were sometimes used as
an herb and stalks as a vegetable the main use was for resin obtained by
cutting the roots or stalks. This resin was highly prized and very expensive,
but the only similar product available today is
Asafetida which was considered inferior when silphion
was available.
Star Anise - [Bat Gok (china),
badiyan (from persian but adopted by other languages),
Illicium verum]
An essential for Chinese cooking this spice is also grown and used in
Vietnam and Laos. The licorice flavored seed pods grow on a tree related to
the Magnolia and native to China. The hard seeds which may be present in the
pods can be discarded because they lack flavor. Star Anise is an essential
ingredient of the Five Spice powder used all over
China and extending into Southeast Asia.
Star Anise is almost always sold as whole or broken pods and should be
ground just before use.
Turmeric
A relative of Ginger, turmeric is most familiar as a finely ground yellow
powder, but fresh and whole dried roots are also available in Indian
and Southeast Asian markets. The fresh root is preferred in SE Asia. Shown
are fresh root, dried root, powder, and our ever present dried red kidney
bean for scale.
The powdered form is most commonly used in India and is ground weekly from
dried roots whenever possible. The U.S. spice trade considers Turmeric
mostly for it's color so the dried powder is likely old with inferior
flavor. That found in Indian groceries generally has better flavor and
aroma because turnover and expectations are much higher.
White Turmeric (Zedoary) is also available as fresh root and is
used particularly in Southeast Asia as an aromatic vegetable, and in India
it is grated and added to various pickles. It has little color but a
considerably sharper taste than yellow turmeric.
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Health Considerations
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