Magnolias

Nightshades

©2007 Clove Garden

• History & General Information
• Buying, Storing and Preparing Tomatoes - methods and hints
• Varieties
• Tomato Products
• Links

Tomatoes may have originated in Mexico where wild varieties have been found, or in Peru. They were almost certainly grown as a crop in both areas in pre Columbian times but hard evidence is scant.

When I was in elementry school in New Jersey our teachers told us Europeans were so ignorant they thought tomatoes were poisonous. They were less ignorant than our teachers, immediately recognizing tomatoes as near relatives of the deadly Black Nightshade. That didn't stop them from eating them though, but weren't accepted as edible by Americans until about 1850.

Early tomato sauces were simmered for a long time because that's how Europeans were accustomed to detoxifying nightshade berries for use in pies. Today we know the tomato berry is not toxic (though the rest of the plant is, mildly toxic) and tomato sauces may be short cooked or even raw - unless you subscribe to Michio Kushi's Macrobiotics theories which hold them to be so toxic I must have died decades ago from eating them.

Tomatoes are plentiful now but flavor has been developed out of commercial varieties by agricultural colleges and industrial farms concentrating on durability, mechanical picking and shelf life. The only way to get realy tasty tomatoes is to grow heirloom varieties yourself or buy them from small growers at farmer's markets.

In Florida, powerful (read: "big political contributors") tomato growers conspire to prevent competition from more flavorful Mexican tomatoes. Their politician pals have been happy to help with legislation (like packaging laws that guarantee ripe tomatoes will be crushed). To quote the head of a big Florida grower, "Who cares about flavor in tomatoes, they're always served with something else" (Wall Street Journal article some year ago).

For many uses, particularly sauces, canned tomatoes are your best option. Tomato canners don't care much about cosmetics (one can looks a lot like any other) or durability in transport (cans hold their shape well), so forced to compete on price and flavor they use tastier varieties, pick them ripe and can immediately.

California and Florida dominate the fresh tomato market, split about even. California also produces about 90% of all tomatoes used for canning and processing while Florida grows almost none for that purpose. The main competitior to these two states is Mexico but other states produce modest amounts, particularly for processing.

• Buying - Produce stands and Farmer's Markets are your best bet for getting tomatoes with some flavor - and at an acceptable price. I'm always stunned at what the grocery chains are charging compared to what I pay at Sunland Produce (often 3 times as much).

  It's awfully hard to tell how good they are without sampling. Sometimes the reddest ones are pasty and tastless inside while rather green ones can develop good flavor set out on the counter. They're usually best when cheapest.

  Tomatoes with plenty of juice and seeds are almost always tastier than ones that are more solid. Avoid over ripe units that are too soft to the touch, better to do the final ripening at home.

• Storing Tomatoes
  DO NOT REFRIGERATE! I didn't believe it either until I tried it - tomatoes last a lot longer set out on a shelf or counter than in the fridge, and taste a whole lot better too because they continue to ripen - and it frees up fridge space.

  Unbag your tomatoes as soon as you get them home and set them out on a hard, non porous surface away from sunlight. Do not set them on cloth or paper towels because then if one goes bad the rot will spread to others.

  Keep them away from other fruits like apples and bananas that exude ethylene gas or they may ripen too fast and decline before you can use them.

  Good tomatoes set out this way will last one to three weeks "depending", with minimal losses, but they start to slowly decline in flavor after about 6 days and by two weeks they're dryish and the seeds are sprouting inside. Check them daily and clean up after any that do rot.

• Peeling Tomatoes - For recipes where tomatoes are cooked for some time they should be peeled or you will have unapetizing curls of tomato skin floating around. Fortunately it's easy to do and done carefully the tomatoes will not taste at all cooked and be just fine for raw sauces and similar uses.
  1. Bring plenty of hot water to a rolling boil in a deep pot.
  2. Start running cold water into the sink.
  3. Put a few tomatoes in the pot and roll them around so they are exposed to the boiling water all around. Time them for 1 to 1-1/2 minutes - no longer (Italian plum tomatoes need the longest time), and then plunge them into cold water to chill quickly.
  4. With a sharp pointy knife, cut out a small cone around the stem, then peel or slide the skins off.
• Washing - Wash tomatoes just before use rather than right after you buy them, they will keep longer that way. If you are concerned about the wax on industrial tomatoes (which government agencies certify as edible and harmless), use something like Comet Cleanser which is effective and doesn't leave a petrochemical film as soaps and dish washing detergents do. Why replace a chemical film certified as edible with one that isn't?
• Slicing and Dicing - Always use an extremely sharp knife, especially if the tomatoes are quite ripe. Tomatoes sliced crosswise will hold their seeds and juice better than if sliced lengthwise. I generaly halve them lengthwise, then slice crosswise. To Dice, slice the tomato halves crosswise, then slice lengthwise. To Chop do the same but with the cuts closer together, then give a few chopping strokes to the pile.

• Ripening - if you have time just leave them out on a shelf or counter as described. If you must rush the process, put them in a brown paper bag with a ripe banana, apple or some other ripe fruit that gives off ethylene gas.

All tomatoes belong to a single species, Lycopersicon esculentum, a member of the Solanum branch of the Solanaceae or Nightshade family. As a single species tomatoes can be cross bred every which way to produce endless varieties. Listed here are some of the major types, each of which is grown from numerous seed brands.

Colors of Tomatoes
Many sizes and varieties of tomato are available in red, orange, yellow, and of course green (unripe). While other writers say color doesn't matter, I compared the same size from the same farms and found yellow tomatoes sadly lacking in flavor, orange better and red the best, so use other colors for accent where flavor isn't critical.

Beefsteak
Large red tomatoes often well over 1 pound each - the one in the picture is over 1#, over 4" in diameter and displays the "navel" typical of these large tomatoes. Developed for the sandwitch industry, beefsteaks makes large and often largely tasteless slices that hold together well. Small growers, however, can get excellent flavor with some beefsteak varieties.

Canned Tomatoes
Small red or Roma, 14.5 oz, 28 oz, 5.5 pound. In many locals canned tomatoes are the only way to get enough tomato flavor for recipes, especially for sauces. Canners can pick when truly ripe because the tomatoes will be processed immediately, and they compete only on flavor and price since one can looks much like any other. More under Tomato Products.

Cherry Tomato
Small red tomatoes about 1" to 1-1/2" in diameter. For a while these were considered the saviour of flavor in commercial tomatoes, but the tomato industry is learning how to make tasteless cherry tomatoes.

Cluster Tomatoes
I see these in two sizes, one bigger than cherry tomatoes (1-1/2" to 2" diameter) and the other smallar than medium industrial tomatoes (2-1/2" to 2-3/4" diameter). The small ones are usually quite good but the larger are quite variable.

The claim is that cluster tomatoes left on the stem will continue to draw nourishment and will ripen better, but nothing can fix a hothouse tomato so this amounts to yet another hoax put over on the wannabe gourmets. Stick to the small ones, or even good quality field grown industrial tomatoes left out on the counter to ripen for about 4 days. Clusters are not waxed so they dehydrate quickly and you should plan on using them up in just a few days.

Green Tomatoes
Unripe regular tomatoes (as distinct from Tomatillos aka Mexican Green Tomatoes). They are much less sweet than ripe tomatoes but are are called for by some recipes. They are nearly impossible to find in chain groceries so you'll have to grow them or get them from a local grower or farmer's market. Green tomatoes contain significant amounts of solanine neurotoxins which are only removed by deep frying (absorbed into the oil) or by very long simmering, so they should be used in moderation.

Heirloom Tomatoes
Older varieties that actually taste good. They come in various colors, are often irregular in shape and have odd names (the ones shown are Purple Cherokee). Heirlooms tend to be thin skinned and delicate, unsuited to high speed commerce, so you have to grow them yourself or buy them from a local grower.

According to the Los Angeles Times (7-'04), supermarket growers have noticed a market for heirloom tomatoes so we should be blessed with an abundance of plaster flavored heirlooms at astronomical prices real soon now.

Hothouse Tomatoes
Perfectly round, red and beautiful, they have every last trace of flavor carefully removed so nothing will distract you from admiring their perfect appearance.

Grocery chains post absolutely absurd prices for these, but their flavor will not improve much even set out on the counter for a few days. That is not to say they don't have uses - let them sit until they're really soft and use them to pelt politicians.

Industrial Tomatoes
Standard supermarket tomatos. Varieties like "Red Rock" were developed by agricultural researchers to withstand machine picking, rough handling and long transportation, admittedly with no consideration whatever for flavor. There has been some improvement in recent years due to consumer complaints, at least in California.

Select good quality industrials that are firm and without bruises or soft spots. You're better off with a touch of pink or even a little green than over-ripe. Set them out on a non-porous shelf or counter out of direct sunlight for a few days and you'll have tomatoes much better than expensive Hothouse Tomatoes. I buy them from a high volume produce store and select various stages of ripening for a steady supply.

Industrials are always waxed to give them better shelf life and I've had some last over a month sitting on the counter until all the seeds inside were sprouted and trying to burst through the skin. Tomato sprouts contain a small amount of solanine toxin to which some people are sensitive. Myself, I've used tomatoes with sprouted seeds without ill effect, but the flavor will have declined and changed.

Italian Plum Tomato - see Roma

Mexican Green Tomato - [Tomatillo]
Not a tomato but a Physalis, see Tomatillo.

Roma [Italian Plum Tomatoes]
Small elongated tomatoes, may be pear shaped or heart shaped, 1-1/2" to 2-1/2" diameter. Generally they are red, but occasionally yellow or orange are available but have less intense tomato flavor. Often canned with a bit of Basil, Romas are preferred for Italian sauces and much other cooking because they have a high percentage of solids and little juice.

Romas are quite sturdy ripe and since they're expected to be cooked they are often picked a bit riper which can give them better flavor for cooking. To peel, give them a little longer in boiling water (1-1/2 minutes) than for most tomatoes.

Roso Bruno Tomato - [Brown Tomato]
This is a new patented variety grown by Dulcinea Farms in California. The San José Mercury News called them a "New Taste Sensation" and worth ever bit of the $3.99/pound they were selling for up there in Yuppyville. My local produce market in Los Angeles was selling them then, and sells them now, for between $.69 and $.89/pound. Of course showing off to your friends that you pay $3.99/pound for tomatoes may be the most important consideration in San José.

So how do they taste? Pretty decent for hothouse tomatoes, but there's only so good hothouse tomatoes get. Leave good quality industrial field grown tomatoes on the counter to ripen for a few days and you can probably beat the flavor. They have to be grown in hothouses because of the patent nonsense.

Siberian Tomatoes
Tomatoes developed in Russia for colder climates and having a very short seedling to fruit time. These are not yet grown commercially but are available to home gardeners. In California they serve as winter or early season varieties.

Teardrop Tomatoes [grape tomatoes]
Red and yellow varieties, 1/2" to 3/4" diameter - very tiny pear shaped or oval tomatoes. Some varieties are exceptionally sweet and tasty, others are purely decorative having almost no flavor.

Tomatillo - [Mexican Green Tomato]
Not a tomato but a Physalis, see Tomatillo.

Vine Ripened
"Vine Ripened" is an industry term describing tomatoes that were not dead green but rather had a pink blush when picked. Tomatoes are then "ripened" in transportation by exposure to ethylene gas. In years past packers would just toss a gasoline soaked rag in the truck to ripen fruit, but gasoline is now illegal for this purpose.

Canned Tomatoes - These products contain only tomatoes, salt and occasionally a basil leaf or two. For making sauces, the farther down from Whole Canned Tomatoes you go the less you need but the flavor will be increasingly darker and it will splatter more during cooking.

• Tomato Juice - basically tomatoes crushed and strained, then heated for the minimum time necessary for canning. UNFORTUNATELY most canned "tomato juice" sold as such today is reconstituted from tomato concentrate and is crap compared to what we could buy back in the '70s and before. Sacramento brand, for instance, was top rated, but the brand was sold to a tomato growers cooperative that switched to concentrate, ruining the product.
• Whole Canned Tomatoes, or whole Italian Plum tomatoes with basil are great for making the tastiest light tomato sauce and soup, but the yield is low since much of the can is filled with tomato juice. Do not discard the juice, use it along with the tomatoes.
• Diced Tomatoes are packed in juice just like whole tomatoes bu will yield a little more sauce because the dice pack more densely.
• Kitchen Cut are like diced but packed in puré like Crushed Tomatoes.
• Crushed Tomatoes have a higher sauce yield than diced but a heavier more "cooked" flavor because they're packed in puré rather than juice. The puré is "cooked down" to make it more dense, but still makes a pretty good sauce.
• Tomato Puré is similar to crushed tomatoes but completely smooth. Definitely preferable to Tomato Paste for sauce recipes that demand a concentrated tomato flavor. Brand matters here so select one that is light and flavorful. The harder to find 14oz cans are quite convenient.
• Tomato Paste has been cooked down until the tomato flavor is highly concentrated, but it also has a rather "cooked" flavor, sometimes even a burned flavor, so select a brand that has decent flavor. Paste is available in cans as small as 6 oz and in squeeze tubes. The tube may be worthwhile if you don't use much (most recipes call for very small amounts). .

  There's likely to be plenty left over from even a 6 oz can, If you'll be using it again reasonably soon scoop the rest into a very small jar, put a layer of olive oil over it to supress mold and store it in the refrigerator. For less frequent use, freeze it in the can, then remove the bottom of the can, warm the can some and push the slug of tomato paste out and wrap it in plastic. Later you can shave off just what you need.

Stewed Tomatoes are sliced tomatoes (half way between whole and diced) with flavoring ingredients similar to those in a simple Tomato Sauce but often way too much of it. These are packed in tomato juice. You're a lot better off starting with whole canned tomatoes cutting them into chunks and adding your own seasonings.

Tomato Sauce comes in many varieties. The simplest canned sauces generally contain water. tomato paste, salt, dehydrated onion, garlic, bell pepper and some spices and flavors. Some have a angry flavor and most will splatter badly when heated. "Gourmet" tomato sauces can contain just about anything so long as tomatoes are a major ingredient.

Making your own tomato sauce starting with canned tomatoes is quick and easy and should be your first choice, but when small amounts of tomato sauce are called for by recipes the 8 oz cans are quite handy. I usually keep Faraon brand "Spanish Style" on hand.

Sun Dried Tomatoes
A specialty of Italy, sun dried tomatoes were made for use during the off-season and are now called for in many Mediterranean recipes. Originally tomatoes were sliced and set out in the sun on slanted boards. The boards were brought in at night and put out the next morning until the tomatoes reached the right state of dryness. Then they would be packed in olive oil. Today more efficient methods are used but the basics are still the same.

Tomato Ketchup (catsup)
Ketchup is held in high favor by children because it contains more sugar than ice cream does. By federal law, if your product doesn't have that much sugar it can't be called "ketchup".

This was a ploy by the food industry to "standardize" the product so they didn't have to reveal on the label that it was about 1/3 sugar (other ingredients are water, salt, vinegar, spices, and, yes, tomatoes). The problem: sugar is not only empty calories, it's known to be damaging to the body in many ways and is considered by some researchers to be an adictive drug, so exposing the high sugar content could have impacted ketchup sales.

Back in 1981 when Ronald Regan was president, his administration was trying to find more money to give to the rich ("tinkle down" economics). His budget director, David Stockman, proposed classifying ketchup as a vegetable to cut down the cost of vegetables in federally funded school lunch programs. The proposal leaked out and was so roundly ridiculed the administration had to withdraw it.

• T1 - Florida Tomato Production - Florida Tomato Committee.