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Cheese
Dairy
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Given hundreds of different cheeses we'll not try to list them all here, but
will concentrate on cheeses widely available in the U.S. and affordable
when you do find them. $20/pound cheeses will be largely ignored unless
there is some overriding reason to list them. Cheeses that are very hard
to obtain in the U.S. will be listed if they are particularly interesting.
American Cheese - (U.S.)
This "processed cheese" was originally made from a blend of cheeses, generally
colby and cheddar but is now manufactured from components, generally milk,
whey, milkfat, milk protein concentrate, whey protein concentrate, salt,
which together meet a Federal definition, though each manufacturer has
a somewhat different formula. Those labeled "American Cheese" and
"American Process Cheese" are quite similar to regular cheese, while those
labeled "American Cheese Food" or "American Cheese Product" are more like
Velveeta and Cheez Whiz.
Color can range from white to orange depending on
how much annatto or food coloring is used. "Individually wrapped" products
(photo) are the least natural. They aren't actually "wrapped", the contents
is "cast in place", poured into the wrappers and solidified there. Blocks
and sliced blocks more approximate real cheese. American Cheese is valued
for it's neat slicing and good melting properties and is mainly used for
sandwiches, both hot and cold.
Armenian String Cheese - (Armenia, California)
A moderately firm white cheese that is pulled into an endless loop until it
is stringy in texture, then twisted up into a hank and vacuum packed for
distribution. It's used mainly as a snack cheese, and yes, it's actually
made in Armenia too.
Armenian String Cheese is occasionally found smoked, similar to smoked
mozzarella, and is sometimes packed with olive oil and herbs as well as
with and without negella seeds.
The photo hank weighed 1 pound and was 7-1/2 inches by
3 inches, cultured pasteurized milk, kosher rennet, salt and negella seeds.
Here in Los Angeles county, site of the "second capital of Armenia"
(Glendale) we have several manufacturers of this cheese and authenticity
is assured. This one was made by Karoun Dairies.
Armenian Sweet Cheese - (Armenia, California)
A very fresh soft cheese used mainly in Armenian pastries. "Sweet" means it
has very little salt and no tang from fermentation, which means it's very
mild in flavor and highly perishable.
This cheese melts completely exuding no oil and is just faintly rubbery
when cooled but the flavor is enhanced by the melting. Whole pasteurized milk,
vegetable rennet, salt.
Asiago (Italy)
A long aged cheese made from cows milk, similar to
Parmesan but a little softer.
Brie (France)
A very soft whole or part skim cow milk cheese with an edible white moldy
rind. Proper brie is not available in the U.S. or Australia due to our
governments' penchant for protecting us from things we don't need protection
from. Brie shipped to the U.S. must be made from pastureized milk which
changes the flavor and texture. In Europe the name "Brie" is protected and
limited to a particular region of France but cheeses named "brie" are made
worldwide outside of Europe.
This cheese extremely popular and is almost always eaten plain or spread
on crackers or some such. The rind should always be eaten along with the rest.
double and triple cream versions are now made for the yuppie trade but taste
a bit more like butter than like cheese.
Brie Noir is a version aged for several months to a year (normal
brie is aged for one month) and the rind has becomes darker and crumbly.
Cashar
Cheddar
Technically, "cheddaring" is the process of pressing and standing for
a few minutes to a couple hours after separating curds from whey to develop
a desirable texture. Although many cheeses are "cheddared", in trade the
name is applied to certain aged cheeses resembling those originally made in
England. Cheddaring develops a fibrous texture, but "Cheddar" cheeses are
ground after cheddaring to make them smooth.
This class of cheese comes
in a wide range of types and an even wider range of quality.
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Mild Industrial Cheddar
A dense, firm cheese with little tang and almost always dyed yellow/orange.
It melts completely, exuding a moderate amount of oil, but is a bit rubbery,
and when cooled it is quite rubbery. To compensate, it is usually coarsely
grated before sprinkling on things for melting in the oven or under the
broiler. It's completely useless for applications like
Welsh Rabbit but is more
flavorful than American cheese in sandwiches and is often grated
for use in tacos and the like.
Sharp Natural Cheddar
Dense, firm, slightly crumbly and quite
tangy. This cheese melts easily and completely, practically to a liquid,
and will exude a fair amount of oil as it melts. It can be white to orange
in color depending on how much annatto is used to color it. It cools to a
somewhat
grainy texture, not rubbery. The photo specimen was from New Zealand,
made from the milk of "grass fed cows". pasteurized milk, cheese culture,
salt, microbial rennet, 36% fat, 0.67% sodium. The U.S., Canada, Ireland
and England are other major producers of this grade of cheese.
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Colby [Colby Cheddar (obs.),
Longhorn Cheddar, (Wisconsin USA)]
First produced in Colby, Wisconsin, this is a semi-hard, mild, washed curd
cheese that is not cheddared and is normally dyed orange. It is most often
made in long cylinders (thus the name "longhorn") and sold in half round
blocks. It is often combined with the similarly made Monterey Jack cheese
to produce a marbled product called "Colby Jack".
Colby is a bit Velveeta-like in flavor and texture and can be used
similarly but is also used as a table cheese and grated as a brownable
topping for dishes finished in the broiler or oven. It melts well, exuding
a moderate amount of oil and doesn't become too rubbery when it cools.
Colby doesn't keep well so should be used within 7 days of opening the
package.
pasteurized cow milk, cheese culture, salt, enzymes, annatto.
Cotija [Queso Cotija, (Mexico,
California)]
Named for the Mexican town of Cotija, Michoacan, this is a stiff, crumbly
cheese with little tanginess and quite a bit of salt, aged from 3 months to
a year. It is used mainly as a crumbled topping and in salads, because it
not only doesn't melt, it hardly even softens. Avoid it for anything that
requires a cheese that melts gracefully. There is also a softer version,
Tajo Cheese, with less salt and less age. pasteurized part skim cultured
cow milk, salt, enzymes.
Cream Cheese, American
Made from cow milk and cream and normally sold in foil wrapped blocks, but
also in tubs. It is mild and spreadably soft, and when
heated becomes very soft, but does not flow or seep oil (small slice on the
left in photo is browned on the underside but held its shape).
Cream Cheese, Italian - see
Mascarpone.
Danish Blue [Danablu, (Denmark)]
A semi-soft very crumbly (it can't be sliced) and rather salty white cow's
milk cheese carefully prepared and cultured to be run through with blue mold
which gives it a distinctive flavor and color. It is generally aged from
2 to 3 months and is not a traditional cheese but an imitation Roquefort
invented around 1910. Danish is softer than other blue cheeses such as
Stilton and Gorgonzola and the
blue mold is more extensive and
more uniform. Danish blue melts down to an oily green puddle that never
solidifies so you want to use it where it will not be melted or only
partially melted (example: inside French omeletes)
Farmers Cheese
This is basically acid coagulated cottage cheese with the liquid squeezed
out of it. Squeeze it even more and you get hoop cheese. It is fairly soft
but somewhat crumbly. This cheese, like the very similarly made Indian Paneer,
softens but does not melt when heated, keeping its shape even until it starts
to burn, as in the photo. Farmers cheese, once scarce here, has become very
common in Southern California due to the growing population from Russia. It
is much used in Eastern Europe for stuffing pastries, pierogi / piroshke.
and for similar uses. It is perishable so refrigerate and use within a week
of opening.
Feta
Traditionally Feta was a generic term for a rather crumbly semi-soft
white cheese preserved in salt brine, but the EU recently gave Greece a
monopoly on use of this name - the result of a long legal battle between Greece
and Denmark. Bulgaria, Turkey and other major producers are currently using
the name "White Cheese" or "Greek Style Cheese" but they should agree on
something better. Major producers (there are many others) are Greece,
Bulgaria, Turkey and Denmark with Bulgarian most common now in California.
This cheese is normally made from sheep milk but goat and even cow milk
have also been used. After coagulation it is pressed into blocks and cured for
several months in a salt brine made from whey or water. It is packaged and
shipped in brine and refrigerated. It can range from very mild to quite
sharp depending on origin. pasteurized whole sheep milk, salt, cultures,
enzymes. Heated it becomes soft and sputters, but holds its shape
and neither becomes runny nor exudes oil. Feta is an essential ingredient
in Greek salads and in pastries from the region as well as in sandwiches
and as a topping for many dishes. It is most often cut into 1/2 inch cubes
or crumbled.
Fontina (Italy (& others))
This family of cow milk cheeses is properly made in Italy and and the
name is protected to particular domains in the European Union. Cheeses
called "Fontina" are also made in the U.S. and elswhere outside the
EU.
Italian Fontina is formally 'Fontina Val d'Aosta' and comes from a legally
defined region. Imitations are made in various countries and called just
Fontina. This cow's milk cheese comes in two forms, as a semi-soft table and
melting cheese with a distinct tanginess, and as an aged grating cheese.
The soft version is about 45% milk fat and melts easily and thoroughly
without exuding much oil, making it ideal for fondue type applications.
Italian Fontina is considered the best, imitations tend to be softer and
blander.
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Aged Fontina (Italy)
Soft Fontina (Italy)
"Fontina" (U.S.)
American "fontina" is always of the soft variety to take advantage of
it's fame in fondu and similar applications. It is soft, almost spreadable
and it melts smoothly and completely, exuding little oil, showing no
stringiness and it cools soft and smooth without rubberiness. It has a
distinct and pleasant flavor but little sharpness. The photo specimen,
was made in Michigan: pasturized part skim milk, cultures, salt, enzymes.
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Fresh Cheese - Generically, any freshly made
unsalted, unaged whole milk or part skim milk cheese subject to fairly rapid
spoiling (5 days or less). These cheese range from soft to firm and are white
unless dyed.
Rezaeyeh brand "Fresh Cheese" distributed by Mediterranean Enterprises is
pretty much identical to California made Paneer
Goat Cheese (Anywhere)
Goat cheese is a generic term for a fresh white cheese made from the
milk of goats. American goat cheese tends to be made up into logs about
1-1/2 inches diameter and can
be quite soft while Greek goat cheese is often firmer and made up into
blocks or packed in plastic tubs.
Goat cheese becomes very soft when heated but does not become runny.
pasteurized milk, salt, rennet (probably animal if Greek, probably microbial
if American) and starter culture, 20% fat 0.4% Sodium.
Grana Padano - Italy
The best selling hard aged cheese in Italy, used for shaving or grating.
Its manufacture is tightly controlled by a cheese cartel and it's made today
very much as it was 1000 years ago by monks in the Po valley.
Havarti - [Cream Havarti,
Flede Havarti (Denmark), (Denmark (and others))]
A cow's milk cheese named for an experimental farm in Denmark where it was
invented. It has very small "eyes", a smooth almost spreadable texture,
a buttery taste and aroma and is a bit sweet. It is generally aged for about
3 months. Suitable for slicing as a table cheese, grilling and melting, it
melts smoothly and completely without stringiness, exudes only a little oil
and cools soft with just a little rubberiness. I consider it a bit bland
though with a touch more flavor after melting - probably best slightly
browined.
The photo sample was from Chili, pasturized cows milk, cheese cultures,
rennet, salt.
Istanbolli - Near East
A soft white spreading cheese with a strong flavor of green peppers but
no significant amount of heat. It is quite salty so keeps well in the
refrigerator It softens and sags but does not run or get stringy and exudes
almost no oil. It's strong green pepper flavor makes it unsuitable for most
cheese recipes. The test example was made in Egypt from buffalo milk.
Jack Cheese - see Monterey Jack.
KachKaval
Kasar (Turkey)
A yellow sheep milk hard cheese made in central Anatolia but is also
sometimes made with cow milk. It is traditionally put up in cylindrical molds
and aged for at least a month, but aging in bee's wax is now being done.
Traditionally raw milk was used and the cheese cultured by the milk's own
flora, but today it is made from pasteurized milk using yogurt as a starter.
Kasar is a meltable cheese used in recipes and is also eaten
by itself.
Kasseri (Bulgaria)
A soft, almost spreadable
sheep milk cheese, moderately salty and moderately pungent with a distinctive
tang. Highly recommended.
Kefir Cheese - see
Lebni
Lebni (Near East)
A very soft spreadable cheese popular in the Near East, particularly for
spreading in sandwiches and the like. It has a sour tang very much like
Yogurt, which stands to reason because it's essentially yogurt with the
water squeezed out. If you need some for a recipe, you can make it just
that way, wrap yogurt in clean muslin and squeeze the liquid out. Since
it's not far from liquid to start with, lebni turns runny and bubbly when
heated. Typically pasteurized milk, cream and enzymes.
Longhorn Cheese - see Colby.
Manouri (Greece (Macedonia,
Thessalia))
This soft mild white sheep or goat cheese is made from the whey left from the
manufacture of feta cheese. It has a slightly grainy texture and is creamier
and less salty than feta and has an almost citrus like tang. Heated it stays
firm, holds its shape and exudes just enough oil so it doesn't stick to the
pan making it a good frying cheese. Manori is used in salads, pastries,
fried appetizers and deserts. Typically pasteurized sheep milk, rennet,
salt, water, 36% to 38% fat; 0.8% sodium. Subst: goat cheese.
Mascarpone (Italy)
A very mild cream cheese often used as a spread but also used in
cooking for cheese sauces and as a thickener. When it melts if liquifies and
exudes a fair amount of oil. Quite acceptable versions are made in
Wisconsin.
Monterey Jack [Jack Cheese,
Queso Monterey (California)]
Originally made by Franciscan monks in Monterey California, this cheese
was put into production by David Jack, thus "Jack Cheese". Cultured
whole milk, salt, enzymes. Because it is very low in tyramine
Monterey Jack is considered one of the safer cheeses for migraine
sufferers.
This cheese melts particularly well and
is not too rubbery when cooled. It is normally sold as a mild, white,
semi-hard cheese with about one month of age, but there are variations:
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Aged Monterey Jack: is aged for 6 months or more, often by others
than the original producer.
Colby Jack is a mix of chunks of orange Colby
and white Monterey Jack giving the cheese a marbled effect.
Dry Jack was invented during WWII as a substitute form Parmesan
which was unavailable.
Pepper Jack has chopped chilis mixed in. It is often used in
recipes such as quesadillas but also appears on cheese plates.
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Mozzarella (Italy (now everywhere))
A stiff white cheese kneaded and stretched after cheddaring to produce
a fibrous texture. Very important in Italian recipes and used extensively
in the U.S. as well. In Italy, proper Mozzarella is made from buffalo
milk which is richer than cow milk, but in the U.S. it's made from cow milk
(the native buffalo aren't at all keen on being milked and water buffalo
herds are still ramping up to production levels).
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(Italy)
Fresh, California
Made up into balls about 1-1/2 inches in diameter and weighing just over
1 ounce and packed in plastic bags floating in whey. The texture is
very soft with just a little of the fibrousness we associate with
mozzarella and much milder than regular U.S. Mozzarella. It melts very
smoothly exuding water rather than oil, and cools with a little more of
the rubberiness we normally associate with mozzarella. Pasteurized cow
milk, starter culture, salt, vegetable rennet.
I do not recommend fresh mozarella for cooking because our recipes
are all gagued for the regular stuff so fresh mozzarella would be bland,
expensive and have little texture.
It is my understanding that mozzarella bars have sprung up in the
more yuppified districts of Southern California where various dishes
featuring fresh mozzarellas (including buffalo milk versions) can be had
at exorbitant prices, but I seldom stray into those districts.
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Mysost (Norway)
A "whey cheese" made from the whey left over from making other cheeses,
as Ricotta originally was, but Mysost is still made
from whey.
Nabulsi (Near East (Jordan, Palestine), California)
A smooth, dense white cheese flavored with ground mahlab seeds and
mastic, and often with a sprinkling of nigella seeds (which may be called
"black caraway: on the label).
Quite firm with medium tang and moderately salty, it melts slightly when
heated and exudes very little oil. In the Near East it is commonly made
from sheep, goat or camel milk, coagulated with animal rennet, boiled in
brine and put up in cans and jars. In California production it is generally
made from whole cow milk and bacterial rennet, formed into slabs 1/2 to 3/4
inch thick, cut into squares, boiled or steamed in brine and vacuum packaged
in heavy plastic bags. Nabulsi is suitable as a table cheese, in sandwiches
and in cooking.
Oaxaca
Similar to mozzarella this mildly tangy cheese has been stretched and knotted.
It melts smoothly with very little oil and when melted strings well when
pulled, considered a necessity for a Mexican melting cheese. At certain
temperatures it can seem just a bit rubbery. The photo specimen was about
4-1/2 inches diameter and weighed 12 ounces. Cultured pasteurized milk,
salt, enzymes and sodium citrate.
Parmesan - [Parmigiano,
(Italy, Wisconsin)
The best known grating cheese, Parmigiano is the Italian name and Parmesan
is French, but used in North America. Real Parmisan / Parmigiano is made
in Italy and the name is a protected designation of origin. There are several
regions allowed to use the Parmigiano name, with Parmigiano-Reggiano the
most prestigious.
In Italy this cheese is made in
a number of grades, ages and degrees of hardness. The minimum age is 12
months and the normal maximum is 36 months but some goes for 48 months. In
Italy this cheese is made from raw whole cow milk that must be from cows
fed only on grass. A starter whey is added and the curds are coagulated with
calf rennet
Quite serviceable versions or Parmisan for general culinary use are made
in Wisconsin though tasteless dry pre-grated versions are also made there.
North American Parmesan manufacture differs somewhat from that of Italy.
Pastureized milk may be used and milk may be from cows fed other than on
fresh grass. Microbial rennet may be used and the curds are
cut less fine and are mechanically pressed to remove moisture.
Parmesan melts reluctantly but well and does not become runny, but it
does exude a fair amount of oil. It also grates very well. Always grate
your Parmesan fresh just before use because quality rapidly declines
when pre-grated.
Paneer - (India - variously spelled)
A soft fresh whole milk cheese used in Indian cooking. It's not widely
available under that name in the U.S., but it's pretty much identical to
Hoop Cheese which is Farmer Cheese with more water squeezed out (which you
can do by wrapping it a cloth and putting a weight on it). You can make Paneer
yourself quite easily.
An important property of Paneer in Indian cooking is is that it doesn't
melt but holds its shape stubbornly when heated even to browning. Of course
Hoop Cheese does this too.
Panela - [Queso Panela,
Queso Canasta, Quesillo, (Mexico, California, also Paraguay,Nicaragua,
Bolivia, Chile and Ecuador)]
This is a firm white mild flavored fresh cheese made from part skim cow
milk, salt and enzymes. Bacterial rennet is used by California producers
but in village production animal rennet is used. The cheese takes the shape
and texture of the little baskets it is formed in and can be either sliced
or crumbled.. Like Indian Paneer it softens with heat
but holds its shape and will brown without melting. It is often cubed or
crumbled for salads, enchiladas and tacos but is also sometimes cut into
slices and fried until lightly browned as a snack. The photo specimen was
4 inches diameter, 1-5/8 inches thick and weighed 12 ounces.
Not to be confused with
the Panela of Columbia which is a similarly shaped cake of unrefined sugar
cane juice.
Pinconning (Michigan USA)
This cheese, developed in Pinconning Michigan is very similar to
Colby but the formula is a little different allowing
it to be aged. It ranges from mild to extra sharp depending on length of
aging. A 10 year "super sharp" is available only by direct order from the
Pinconning Cheese Company. Pinconning has a rich, creamy flavor and texture
and is used as a table cheese in place of Colby or cheddar. It is also used
for mac-and-cheese, in soufflés, and as a base material for
manufacturing cheese spreads. >
Queso Fresco (Mexico, California)
Literally "fresh cheese". A part skim milk cheese that's very soft, yet
crumbly, and has a tang similar to Ricotta. It melts well, exuding some oil.
Made in Mexico and California.
Quartirolo Lombardo - Italian
A semi-soft cheese made from whole cow milk. It has a pinkish rind that
acquires reddish-gray molds with age and may be a little lumpy and crumbly
in the center. It is most used with salads and cold meats.
Ranchero (Mexico, California)
Another variety of Queso Fresco used in Mexican
cooking.
Ricotta (Italy & everywhere)
An Italian cheese originally made from the whey left over from
making other cheeses (the name means "recooked"). Today it's just about all
faked up from whole milk with vanishingly little made from whey. It's a soft
cheese (sold in tubs) with a unique tang and is used in many Italian recipes,
especially for stuffing pasta. Sometimes it's called for as a substitute for
Paneer in Indian recipes, but Farmers / Hoop Cheese is
a better substitute.
Romy - Aged (Egypt)
An almost hard crumbly aged cheese made from buffalo and cow milk. It has
a fairly strong flavor which is sometimes enhanced by embedded peppercorns.
When heated it softens and exudes a small amount of oil but does not lose it's
shape, even when fried brown and crisp.
Sbrinz (Swiss)
A whole cow milk hard grating cheese aged at least two years. It has a
dark yellow interior, a brownish-yellow rind and a rich mellow flavor. If it
hasn't been aged the full 2 years it is called Spalen.
Spalen (Swiss)
A whole cow milk grating cheese same as Sbrinz but
not aged as long.
Sulguni [Suluguni, (Georgia (Caucasus), California)]
Typical of the highly respected Georgian cuisine, this firm white cheese is
similar to mozzarella but a little softer and with a smooth texture (mozzarella
is stringy from pulling and kneading). It melts very well. In Georgia it is
often just sliced, coated with flour and fried, and is also used in making
cheese bread.
In California production it is commonly made up into 1 pound 5-1/4 inch
wheels and is also popular smoked. The photo shows a wedge of smoked, a
wedge of regular and a piece melted. Typically part skim milk, enzymes, salt,
bacterial rennet (Georgian production would likely use animal rennet) 18%
fat, 0.61% sodium. Subst: standard market mozzarella (expensive
fresh mozzarella doesn't work well).
Syrian Cheese (California)
This is probably patterned after the Charkassiye cheese
of Syria. Like other fresh "farmers cheese" type cheeses it softens when
heated but does not melt, holding its shape even through browning.
Tulum [Tulumu, (Turkey)]
A distinctly tangy semi-soft cheese generally made from sheep or goat
milk, but cow milk is also sometimes used used. It is put up with salt
and aged for three months or more in special bags, traditionally made
from animal skins. Tulum from the Agean region are put up in salt brine.
Most versions are white but some harder yellow versions are also made.
Tulum melts quite well without exuding too much oil but remains a trifle
rubbery.
Velveeta [Velveta (Germany),
Kraft Cheddar Cheese (Australia), (Kraft Foods, U.S. & elsewhere)]
A "pasteurized process cheese product" (it contains less than 51% cheese
so can't legally be called a "processed cheese food"). It melts, easily and
evenly to a creamy consistency. Many claim it's the
best product to use in the ever popular American macaroni and cheese, but
many also complain it isn't as good as it used to be. Velveeta was invented
in 1918 by Swiss immigrant Emil Frey, so it's not all America's fault. The
texture is smooth and creamy, soft but firm enough to slice. It is currently
sold in the U.S., Canada, Hong Kong, Philippines, South Korea, Australia and
Germany. This product does not need to be refrigerated after opening.
White Cheese
While this term can be variously used, it is currently being used
to indicate Feta type cheeses made outside Greece since
the EU got conned into giving Greece a monopoly on the word "feta" though
this type of cheese has been made for thousands of years throughout
Southeastern Europe and Anatolia.
Nutrition:
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