Water Spinach
[Swamp Cabbage;
Ong Choy - variously spelled (Cantonese); Pak Hung, Pak Bung (Thai);
Kang Kong (Malay, Filipino); Kang Kung, Rau Muong (Vietnam); Toongsin Tsai
(Mandarin); Chinese Watercress, Water Convolvulus, Water Morning-glory;
Ipomoea aquatica syn. Ipomoea reptans]
This semi-aquatic plant is widespread and of uncertain origin, but is a common vegetable in the wetter parts of India and China, and through Southeast Asia to the Philippines. It is highly nutritious, provides a very high yield per acre and grows as much as 4 inches a day. Within the U.S. it is a controlled substance where importing plants or seeds and/or growing plants without a permit are all illegal - see USDA Plant Profile. Growing it or even transporting it is totally illegal in some states.
Here in California it's a quarantined crop but may be transported without a permit within the state. Enough growers have permits it's in good supply, and that's a good thing because if it wasn't our Asian population might try sneaking it into our waterways like they have with snakehead fish. Growing with a permit and posession for personal consumption are also legal in Texas. A permit is required in Massachusetts and mere posession is illegal in Florida.
There are several varieties of this vegetable. The top photo shows a long
leafed variety that can be grown in damp soil (Ching Quat). The center
photo shows a broad leafed variety that requires free water (Pak Quat).
The bottom photo shows a broad leaf variety that is much tougher than the
other two, purchased from a local Asian grower. The narrow leaf in the top
photo above were about 19 inches long, the broad leaf in the center photo
about 24 inches long, and the broad leaf at in the bottom photo were about
14 inches long.
The broad leaf variety (center photo) is said to be preferred in Asia
but is not often available here in Southern California. When it is available
it is generally sold as "Water Ong Choy". Note that the stems of this
variety are much larger than those of the narrow leaf. You use them a bit
larger than 1/4 inch diameter, but not much. Larger ones tend to collapse
and look ugly.
The broad leaf variety shown in the bottom photo is quite different from
the other two. The stems are all tough, including the leaf stems and all
should be discarded. The leaves are much thicker so a lot more of the weight
of the bunch is in the leaves. Because the leaves are tougher, they are a
lot more durable than the long leaf and a bunch will probably last a day or
two more in the fridge, carefully packed with no free water. They also
need more cooking time.
More on Morning Glory.
|
Buying: water spinach is found in Asian markets, particularly those serving a Southeast Asian community, but not far from where it is grown because it's very perishable. It is completely illegal in some states but widely available in Southern California, generally in 1 to 2 pound bunches. The broad leaf varieties are much less available - a "buy it when you see it" item. Leaves should be fresh looking, dark green, without black spots and not wilted. If it needs refreshing when you get it home cut off the bottom 1/2 inch of the stems and stand it upright in a bowl of water for 1/2 hour. Storing: water spinach is very perishable, particularly the long leaf variety. Store it in the refrigerator wrapped in plastic or paper, but if plastic make sure there's no free water or it'll get black spots. One day is about as long as you can hope it'll keep. Preferably cook it the day you buy it. Cooking: discard stems that are more than 1/4 inch thick as they tend to be fibrous. Water spinach is generally cooked a minimal time, just enough to wilt it. Pinch the leaves off leaving the leaf stems with the main stems. Cut the stems into desired lengths and keep them separate from the leaves. Cook the stems until they start to wilt (about 3 minutes) before adding the leaves. Properly cooked, the stems will remain slightly crunchy providing an interesting texture. Water Spinach has a particular affinity for fermented shrimp. Mist recipes includes either shrimp paste or ground dried shrimp - even the Chinese ones, and the Chinese are not big users of shrimp paste - except in the southeast where the water spinach grows. Subst: The most appropriate substitute is Yu Choy. Like water spinach the stems don't take a lot more cooking than the leaves, but the center stems are thick and not hollow. Slice them diagonally about 1/8 inch thick at the thick end adjusting to about 3/4 inch at the tender tip. |