Celery

Celery
Stems & Leaves

[A. graveolens var. dulce]

Celery grown in the US is almost entirely the Pascal cultivar which produces very large, mild flavored stems that are less fibrous than earlier varieties were. California is far and away the largest producer. The photo specimen was 27 inches long and weighed 1-3/4 pounds, but heads over 3 pounds are common.

There are also red varieties but these are very rarely seen and are considered less desirable. In Europe a "self blanching" variety is favored that is mostly pale yellow like the center of our celery. This is as absurd as their penchant for flavorless white asparagus.

Chinese Celery
Stems & Leaves [A. graveolens]

Probably much like celery grown in Europe before 1600, this plant has relatively thin stems, is stronger in flavor and is more fibrous than Pascal celery. It is now grown in California and available in many Asian markets here. If your recipe calls for it and you can't get it, use regular celery above the first joint where the flavor is stronger. The larger of the two photo specimens was 30 inches long and weighed 0.7 pound.

Buying & Storing: Fresh celery is available throughout North America in every supermarket and independent market. Look for heads heavy for their size with nice thick stems. For most stews and ethnic recipes you wan celery with plenty of leaves. Leafy celery can generally be found in farmer's markets.

Celery will keep, loosely wrapped in plastic, for a couple weeks in the refrigerator, but the outer stalks will gradually become thin and start to yellow. Discard any that are like that, their flavor will be inferior.

Cooking: Some recipes call for removing the strings. This is a difficult wasteful and generally unnecessary process in most cases - maybe you have to do this in Europe, but not here. If you need the stalks particularly non-stringy just run your vegetable peeler down the edges of the stalks.

When using celery to make soup stock cut it from the leafy end above the first joint for the best flavor. When reviving Medieval or Roman recipes use Chinese Celery, or lacking that use the part above the first joint. Do the same for Asian recipes if you can't get Chinese Celery.

What to do with the pale center? I just munch it. leaves and all, as an impromptu salad while working, dressed with a flavorful vinegar and salt.