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Magnolias
©2008 Clove Garden
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Parsleys
This very important culinary family grows the world around, mainly in
temperate climates but some into the subtropics.
Angelica - [Angelica archangelica
(garden angelica), Angelica sylvestris (wild angelica)]
Angelica is native to the subarctic regions of the northern hemisphere and
grows as far north as Lapland. While there are many angelica species, only
the two listed here are of culinary interest. To have it on hand you must
grow it yourself - it likes damp soil, growing leaves ther first year and
going to seed the second year. It grows wild in Scandanavia where it is
quite popular and is cultivated in one region of France, mostly for flavoring
liqueurs and medicinal properties. It is also used to fllavor omeletts, some
fish dishes and jams. Angelica is more gently "perfumy" than other members of
the parsley tribe. Wild angelica has been used mainly as an emergency food.
Anise -
[Pimpinella anisum]
Native to the Eastern Mediterranean region, the dried fruits are an
important flavoring there.
Ajwan -
[Carom seed; Omam (Tamil); Ajmo (Gujarati); Owa (Marathi);
Trachyspermum copticum]
Originating in Egypt or the Middle East, the dried fruits of this
plant are now used mainly in India but also in Afghanistan, Egypt, Eritrea
and Ethiopia. It is said to reduce flatulance from beans if cooked with them.
Ajwan contains thymol and raw it smells and tastes like thyme but stronger,
harsher and with some bitterness. Raw ajwan can overwhelm a dish if not used
with discretion. In India it is always dry roasted or fried before using
which tempers the flavor. Some sources say ajwan is lovage seed but that is
incorrect.
Arracacha - [Apio (Puerto Rico), Apio
Criollo (Venezuela), Zanahoria Blanca (Ecuador), Virraca (Peru),
Mandioquinha / Batata-baroa (Brazil), Arracacia xanthorriza]
This parsley root, native to the Andes region of South America is a major
crop in Brazil but popular all over South America and the Caribbean region.
The flesh may be white, yellow or purple. It is put to uses similar to
potatoes but has a more distinctive flavor and in some cultivars intense color.
Leaves are used as a flavoring herb and young stems are cooked as a vegetable
similarly to celery. Arracacha roots can be kept loosely wrapped in the
refrigerator for up to 3 weeks. Subst: parsnips combined with some
celery should work.
Photo by
Fibonacci licensed under
GNU Free Documentation License v1.2 or later.
Caraway -
[Anethum graveolens]
Native to western Asia and Europe the dried fruits of this plant are
used mostly in the cuisines of Central and Northern Europe to flavor bread,
sauerkraut, cheeses, liquors, casseroles and other foods. They also have a
long history of medicinal use. The roots may be cooked as a root vegetable
but are not raised commercially for that purpose.
Carrot -
[Daucus carota ]
The carrot probably originated in Afghanistan which is still the
center of diversity for wild carrots.
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Carrot (domestic) -
[Daucus carota subsp. sativus]
Decended from wild carrots (see below) domestic carrots were
originally grown for leaves and seeds used as flavorings. As varieties
with larger non-woody tap roots were developed the carrot became a common
root vegetable. The orange root carrot so familiar today first appeared
in the Netherlands during the 17th century.
The Afghan ancestors of our common carrots are commonly purple or yellow
and often have branched roots. In Imperial Rome carrots were generally
white or purple. Our market varieties are naturally white or orange, but
yellow, red, maroon, purple and nearly black varieties have been
developed, and one that's purple on the outside and orange on the inside.
Some have been developed with particular medicinal properties.
Various shapes, sizes and colors are grown:
- Imperator - the long tapered market carrot commonly sold whole.
- Nantes - a blunt cylintrical carrot, sweeter than Imperator but rare.
- Danvers - a conical carrot shorter than Imperator and more tolerant
of heavy soils is most often pureed into baby food.
- Chantenay - a sort, blunt but very wide (up to 3 inches) carrot is
most commonly diced for use in canned and frozen foods.
Details and Cooking.
Carrot (wild) -
[Quene Anne's Lace, Bishops Lace, Bird's Nest, Daucus carota,
Daucus pusillus (American)]
Probably originating in Afghanistan. D. carota varieties are
now native to southwest Asia, Europe and northeast North America.
D. pusillus is native to the southeast, mountain west and west
coast of the US and into British Columbia.
Like the domestic carrot the wild carrot produces edible tap roots, but
they are small and edible only when quite young, turning woody as they
mature. A teaspoon of the seeds has been known since ancient times to
be a natural form of birth control, disrupting the egg implantation
process. Great care must be taken gathering this herb in the wild because
it is very similar to toxic Water Hemlock (genus Cicuta). Note that
flower stems of wild carrot are distinctly hairy and those of most toxic
imitators are not.
Photo by Rangeley distributed under
GNU Free Documentation License v1.2.
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Celery -
[Apium graveolens (common), Apium prostratum (Australian)]
Except for the Australian variety, all common celerys are cultivars of
a single species, A. graveolens. This species is native to the
Mediterranean region. While celery was well known to the ancient Egyptians
it is not known if they cultivated it since it was a common weed there.
Celery was definitely under weigh durring the Greek and Roman empires. Before
Rome celery was used medicinally, but the Romans seem to have started cooking
with it, though with caution. Development of modern varieties with thick
stems or large roots began in the 1600s.
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Celery - Stalk -
[A. graveolens var dulce]
Celery grown in the US is almost entirely the Pascal cultivar which
produces very large, mild flavored stems that are less fiberous than
earlier varieties were. California is far and away the largest producer.
The photo specimen was 28 inches long and weighed 3-1/4 pounds.
There are also red varieties but these are very rarely seen and are
considered less desirable. In Europe a "self blanching" variety is favored
that is mostly pale yellow like the center of our celery.
Celery - Root -
[Celeriac, Knob celery, Turnip rooted celery, A. graveolens
var rapaceum]
While many references say "grown in Central and Eastern Europe", this root
is also grown in California and widely available here. The roots are
generally used to flavor soups and stews but can be eaten on their own
raw or cooked.
Celery - Chinese -
[A. graveolens]
Probably much like celery grown in Europe before 1600, this plant has
relatively thin stems, is stronger in flavor and is more fiberous than
Pascal celery. It is now grown in California and available in many Asian
markets here. If your recipe calls for it and you can't get it, use
regular celery above the first joint where the flavor is stronger.
Celery - Wild -
[Smallage, A. graveolens var secalinum]
This thin, stringy ancestor of our celery is cultivated for one puropose,
production of celery seed. The seeds are smaller and stronger than those
of domesticated celery and production is greater.
Celery Seed -
[Celeriac, A. graveolens]
Celery seed (actually very tiny fruits) are produced from wild celery
rather than the domesticated varieties. Much of what is sold as
"celery seed" is mixed with or even entirely lovage seed. Apparently
lovage is a better seed producer but it very closely relateed to and is
very similar to wild celery. Celery seed is often ground 1 part to 3 parts
salt to make clery salt which is used in the bar drink "Bloody Mary" as
well as on Chicago style hot dogs and in Old Bay seafood seasoning.
Studies in Australia and South Africa have shown celery seed extract
effective in treating and preventing gout but the FDA has yet to evaluate
this usage. "Hearsay evidenc" supports the studies (1),
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Chervil - [Gourmet's parsley,
Garden Chervil, Anthriscus cerefolium, Apium prostratum
(Australian)]
This plant, native to the Caucasus, was spread through Europe during the
Roman Empire and today is used there mostly in France. The leaves have a
more delicate flavor than parsley and with a hint of liquorice. Today it
is commonly called for in gourmet magazines recipes to help you feel
inadequate because you can't get it. I imagine it can be had at the Santa
Monica Farmer's Market, but nothing's going to get me to drive to Santa
Monica at dawn on Saturday to do battle with desparate chefs from all those
fancy West Side restaurants.
On the other hand, it can almost always be found put up in 26 oz jars
of brine at markets serving an Armenian or Turkish community (see
Details and Cooking).
There is another variety which, as with parsley, is grown for its roots
rather than leaves. This is commonly used in France to flavor soups and
pretty much nowhere else. Photo by Rasbak distributed under
GNU Free Documentation License.
Cicely -
[Sweet Cicely, Myrrhis odorata]
Native to Central Europe, leaves of this plant are used as an herb in
the cuisines of Scandinavia and Germany, and to flavor alcoholic beverages.
It has a strong scent and flavor similar to anise.
Coriander - Cilantro -
[Chinese parsley, Mexican parsley; Dhania (India); Coriandrum sativum]
Probably originating in southwestern Asia, this plant is now grown
worldwide and is important to most cuisines. The whole plant is edible.
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Leaves (Cilantro) - The green herb is important in almost all
non-European cuisines worldwide. Though once commonly used in Europe
it has been totally eclipsed there by parsley, but still appears in
some traditional Portuguese dishes.
Fruit (Coriander seed) - This spice is important worldwide but
particularly in India in combination with cumin. This same combination
was also popular in Imperial Rome. As with the leaves this spice is least
used in Europe. A product which is actually the seeds, separated from the
fruit shell and rolled flat is made in India and called "dhania dal".
It was in part a failed attempt to get around export taxes on spices.
Roots are little used except in Thailand where they are an
important component in curry pastes - but cilantro with roots on is very
scarce even in Southern California. The best substitute is stems - no
leaves.
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Culantro -
[Long coriander, Mexican coriander, Donnia; Ngo gai (Viet);
Eryngium foetidum]
Native to Mexico and South America this herb is now grown worldwide and
particularly popular in Thailand and Vietnam, but is little known in the US.
Unlike Cilantro with which it is often compared, culantro dries fairly well
retaining color and flavor. It is said to be stronger but similar in taste
to cilantro but I do not find it very similar.
Cumin -
[Cuminum cyminum]
Probably orginating in southwestern Asia this plant has been native
to the region from the eastern Mediterranian to eastern India since
prehistoric times.
Cumin - Black -
[Kala Jeera, Shahi Jeera (India); Zireh Kuhi (Persia); Siyoh Dona (Tajiki)
Bunium persicum alt? B. bulbocastanum]
Fruits of this plant are used in the cuisines of northern India,
Afghanistan, Tajikistan and Persia - and are all but unknown outside that
region, though the plant grows wild as far as southeastern Europe. The
leaves can be used as is parsley and the roots cooked, said to taste
like sweet chestnuts, but only the fruits are available in the US. This
spice is not to be confused with Nigella, often also called "Black Cumin"
- not an English translation error, it's called that in Bengal.
Dill -
[Shubit (Semitic); Shepu, Sowa (Asia); Thi la (Vietnam);
Anethum graveolens]
Originating in Eastern Europe and/or Western Asia, dill has been cultivated
since Neolithic times. The Talmud (Jewish law) requires tithes be paid in
dill seeds and stems. and some stems were found in the toumb of Tutankaman.
Fennels - [genus
Foeniculum (fennel proper), genus Ferula (giant fennel)]
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Asafoetida -
[Ferula assafoetida]
This giant fennel, native to Iran and Afghanistan, provides a resin
that is widely used in Indian cuisine and in ayurvedic medicine. This
resin is sold in three forms: resin droplets or nuggets, pure powdered
asafoetida, and most commonly "hing powder", asafoetida cut to 30% with
rice flour and gum arabic. The photo is of pure powdered asafoetida.
Asafoetida was first reported to Europe by Alexander the Great who
declared it inferior to Silphium (Roman Laser) from
North Africa, particularly due to the offensive sulfurous smell - very
like that of SAE 90 weight Hypoid Gear Oil. Unfortunately, due to poor
resource mismanagement Laser became extinct during the Roman Empire
leaving them to use asafoetida or do without (unthinkable).
Today asafoetida is widely used in in the cuisines of India, particularly
by those sects and castes to whom onions, garlic and all their relatives are
forbidden by religious decree. It does not taste the same but lends a similar
sophistication of flavor to dishes it is used in.
Details and Cooking.
Fennel (Seed) - [Saunf (Hindi);
Mouri (Bengali); Foeniculum vulgare]
This plant is native to the Mediterrnean coast and from there was carried
to India by the Greeks and Romans and is now a common invasive in North
America, Asia and Australia. It is now grown worldwide for its
aromatic seeds which are used to flavor liqueurs and other beverages as
well as a component of spice mixes and curries. In Italy it is much used
as a flavoring ingredient in sausages. In india roasted seeds are used as
an after meal breath freshner. It also has medicinal applications.
Syria, India and Mexico are the top three producers.
The photo shows two forms, common fennel seeds and Luknow fennel,
a special variety from northern India which has a more intensely liquorish
flavor.
Florence Fennel - [Finocchio.(Italy),
Anise (US Supermarkets - in error), Foeniculum
vulgare var. azoricum]
This variety of F. vulgare is milder than other cultivars and
grown for its swollen leaf bases which form a bulb-like structure. It is
most used in Italy where the bulbs are prepared and consumed in many
forms and the fronds are also used in salads and recipes.
Silphium - [Laser (Rome), Silphium
(Greece), Ferula ?????]
This plant, apparently a giant fennel, provided several of the most important
sauces and condiments of ancient Greece and Rome. Juice from the stems and
roots, the stems themselves and most important the resin exueded from cuts just
above the root were used. So important was this plant to the ancient cuisines
they cannot be accurately reproduced without it. Unfortunately it is not
currently available due to presumed extinction (some still hope it can be
found somewhere in the wilds of Libya).
While other members of the fennel family have been sold as "silphium",
true silphium grew only around the city of Cyrene in Libya, North Africa.
While Pliny wrote that silphium of Cyrene was extinct in the 1st century CE,
it appears from other writers it still existed there in the 5th century CE.
Several varieties of African fennel have been proposed as "silphium" but all
ancient representations of the plant distinctly show a striated stem and
leaves in nearly opposite pairs. No fennel like this has yet been found.
Ferula tingitana is thought to be the nearest living relative.
Details and Cooking.
Photo of coin from Cyrene believed in public domain.
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Hemlock - [Poison Hemlock,
Conium maculatum (Europe), Conium chaerophylloides (South Africa)]
Do not eat - this is one of the most toxic plants known to man, just
a few leaves are enough to kill an adult. The powerful neurotoxin can also be
absorbed through the skin from handling the plant. Death is from asphixiation
when the respiratory muscles become paralized. I describe it here as a
warning not to eat just any herb that looks like a carrot - and there are
others similarly toxic
While native to Europe it has been introduced to North America and is
now widespread, particularly in the Mountain West where it is easily confused
with wild carrot and other plants valued by Native Americans for food and
medicine. It has also been introduced to Australia. This plant grows only in
places where the soil is permanently moist. Identify it by crushing leaves
which will have a rank and musty smell, not spicy. Wash your hands after
crushing to avoid absorbing the toxin.
Photo by US Department of Agriculture = public domain.
Lovage -
[Levisticum officinale]
Lovage was a very important flavoring herb during the Roman Empire and is still
used in parts of Southern Europe, but has fallen out of general culinary
use. Strangely, what is sold commercially as "lovage seed" is often actually
Ajwan, while much of what is sold as "celery seed" is
actually part or wholly lovage seed. Lovage is often used as an insect
repelling companion plant and is used in herbal medicine.
Illustration from Koehler's Medicinal-Plants 1887 copyright
expired.
Mitsuba -
[Japanese wild parsley, Cryptotaenia japonica alt.
Cryptotaenia canadensis subsp. japonica]
Native to North America and East Asia this plant is used as an herb
seasoning and sprouts are used in salads. It is described as similar to
angelica. Photo by Mbc distributed
under
GNU Free Documentation License v1.2.
Parsley -
[Petroselinum crispum]
Possibly originating in Persia, parsley is now very commonly used in Europe,
North America and Western Asia, and has almost completely displaced
coriander as a green herb in Europe.
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Leaves: Two forms are available, flat leaf (Italian)
and curly leaf. Flat leaf parsley has a leafy texture, stronger, more
complex flavor and is used in cooking. Curly leaf is used as a decorative
garnish, having a texture similar to plastic and flavor to match. Like
plastic it is very resistent to wilting which enhances its decorative
usefulness. Dried parsley has little flavor so fresh parsley, now available
year-round, should always be used, unless you are trying to accurately
reconstruct recipes from the Eisenhower era.
Details and Cooking.
Fruit (Parsley seed) The seeds are little used for
culinary purposes except to grow parsley from. Getting it to sprout
is not easy because its outer coating contains a substance that supresses
sprouting. If grown in pots they should be deep to accomodate the
tap root. The seed does find some use in the herbal supplement
industry.
Roots Varieties have been developed that produce
large tap roots which are popular in cuisines of Central and Eastern Europe.
The flavor is more delicate and herbal and far less sweet than that of
parsnips so they are not at all interchangeable.
Details and Cooking.
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Parsnip -
[Pastinaca sativa]
Native to Eurasia, parsnips have been eaten since ancient times and
were carried north by the Romans who found they grew much larger in colder
climates. They are harvested after the first sharp frost as their flavor
improves from this exposure. They are not grown in frost free climates for
this reason. In recent times parsnips have been overshadowed
by the potato but are still featured in some Euripean traditional meals.
Today they are often used to flavor soups and stews. Parsnips are less crisp,
sweeter and milder but more aromatic in flavor than carrots. The center photo
specimen was 8-3/4 inches long, 2-1/4 inches diameter and weighed 7-1/2 ounces.
Details and Cooking.
Wild parsnips should be avoided as their foliage contain a chemical that
sensitize the skin to sunlight resulting in severe burns. They are also easy
to confuse with Hemlock, an extremely deadly relative.
Rock Samphire -
[Crithmum maritimum]
A salt tolerant plant that grows on cliffs and rocky shorelines of
the British Isles, rock samphire has long been gathered and eaten England,
appreciated for it's spicy, aromatic flavor. Gathering it is now illegal in
England, though it can be grown from seed in gardens, if you can get seeds.
This is the samphire mentioned by Shakespeare and not to be confused
with Marsh Samphire (Salicornia europaea) - while used similarly
that one's an amaranth, not a parsley.
Photo by Jymm, contributed to the public domain.
Yampa -
[Perideridia gairdneri]
Native to Western North America this parsley that looks like grass until
it blooms and prefers to grow in grassy medows. The peanut size roots were
a staple for American Indians but were harvested to extinction in some areas.
They were baked or steamed and provided excellent nutrition. The seeds were
used as a flavoring similar to caraway seed. Raw, the root acts as a mild
laxative.
Aralias -
[Ginsing family, familyAraliaceae]
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Ginseng - [Panax quinquefolius
(American), Panax ginseng (Korean)]
Of the two major species of Ginseng, the American, farm grown in Wisconsin
and Canada, is considered the best. Siberian Ginseng
(Eleutherococcus senticosus) belongs to a different genus and has a
different makeup of active ingredients. While considered inferior, it's put
to much the same uses as the Panax species and is often deceptively
sold as Panax. Given the reputation of American ginseng, much of the
Korean variety is put up in red, white and blue packages and sold as
"Wisconsin Ginseng", even by Asian markets here in the USA.
Ginseng is reputed to
improve libido and sexual performance, improve blood circulation, response
to stress and recovery from weakness. Side effects are reputed to be
insomnia and change in blood pressure (up or down). The photo specimens,
from a Korean market in Los Angeles, were 6-3/4 inches long and weighed
1-3/8 ounce (left) and 2 ounces (right).
Ivy - [English Ivy, Common Ivy,
Hedera helix]
Ivy, mostly noted for covering buildings on expensive college campuses, is
not actually edible (the seeds are toxic to people but not to birds), nor is
it of much use as a medicinal. It's included here just to add perspective to
the Aralia family.
Pennywort - [Gotu kola (Sri Lanka);
Dollarwort (U.S.); Rau-ma (Viet); Myin-kwa-ywet (Burma); Pegaga (Malay);
Buabok (Thai); Pegagan (Indonesia); Takip-kohol (Philippine);
Centella asiatica (small variety), Hydrocotyle javanica
(larger variety) and ohers]
Pennyworts grow worldwide in wet and moist tropical and temperate areas
but the varieties of most culinary interest are native to Southeast Asia, Sri
Lanka and Australia. Botanists variously place them in family Apiaceae
with carrots and parsley or in family Araliaceae with ginseng or in
family Mackinlayaceae with a few Australian plants of little note. The
largest photo specimen (H. javanica) is 3-1/2 inches across the
leaf.
Non-Asian species have fully round leaves with the stem attached near the
middle of the underside. Water Pennywort (Hydrocotyle ranunculoides)
is native to North and South America and grows in water with the leaves
floating on the surface. Hydrocotyle vulgaris looks like
ranunculoides but grows out of water, is native to North Africa, Europe and
Florida, and the variety noted in English and European herbals. All common
species are edible.
Details and Cooking
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Pittosporums -
[family Pittosporaceae]
Pittosporums are well known in Southern California as landscape shrubs
and small trees, particularly Pittosporum tobira which thrives all
too well.
Apple Berry - [Hairy Apple Berry,
Apple Dumpling, Billardiera scandens]
Fruits of this shrub which grows over most of Australia were enjoyed by
Australian Aborigines, either ripe or roasted unripe. They are variously
described as tasting like stewed apple or kiwifruit. The fruits are a little
over 1-1/8 inch long, green with a red blush, and do not ripen until they
drop from the shrub.
This shrub is now grown far from it's Australian
homeland, but mainly as a decorative that can tolerate part shade from
eucalyptus. Few gardeners may even realize the fruits are edible.
Links
- Celery Seed and Gout -
Dr. Duke's Essential Herbs.
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