Fungus
|
|
|
The funguses (fungi) we know as "mushrooms" consist almost entirely of fibers which live in the ground or in decaying vegetation and some are among the largest, heaviest living things - but all unseen to us. When times are good they send up fruiting bodies which are the "mushrooms" we pick for food or "medicinal purposes". Many mushrooms are highly toxic, and some toxic varieties look very much like edible ones, so wild mushrooms need to be carefully identified before consumption. A few varieties which are themselves non-toxic cause alcohol to become highly toxic. Unlike plants, funguses do not generate their own energy but subsist entirely on breaking down and absorbing dead or living plant or animal material (and in some rare cases other funguses). VarietiesThis is by no means a comprehensive list, but includes those I've found available for purchase at reasonable prices. Not included are most of the edible varieties only found wild, though I have included links to sites that do list those. Not long ago it was difficult to find any but supermarket white mushrooms, but with a proliferation of ethnic markets in the US variety is growing steadily and prices are declining. Currently there is a large growing operation being set up in California as a joint venture with Japan. amd this should improve the situation even more when it comes on line. Amanita - [Amanita muscaria and
many other Amanita spp.]
This large family of mushrooms includes many highly toxic varieties that should not be consumed on penalty of death (self enforcing). Milder varieties are sometimes taken in sub-lethal doses for psychoactive purposes beyond the scope of this document. Some Amanitas are used in cooking but rarely in the US. With proper preparation (boiling in plenty
of salted water which is discarded) the dread Amanita muscaria (photo) has
been reported edible, but other toxic mushrooms are not disarmed by cooking.
Death from mushroom poisoning is generally from liver failure, takes several
days and is not pleasant.
Beech Mushroom - see Hon-Shimeji. If any mushroom deserves the name "abalone mushroom" this is the one. About the size of a very large abalone (the kind you can't get any more), sliced it looks like abalone steaks and when cooked it even tastes a bit like abalone. Very meaty and almost chewy this is a really fine
mushroom. The photo specimen on the left was 4-1/2 inches across
and weighed 5-1/2 ounces, about average. Originally from Outer Mongolia
it is now commercially cultivated in China and can be found in Asian
groceries in Los Angeles (from $3.99/# to double that).
Black Fungus [Wood Ear, Cloud Ear;
Kikurage (Japan); Mu-ehr (China); Auricularia polytricha,
also A. auricula-judae, Hirneola auricula-judae and others
(variation in color)]
This thin nearly black fungus is sold dried and will expand to about 4 times the dried volume when soaked. It is often used in soups and stir fries in China and Korea for its slippery but crunchy texture. It has little flavor of its own but does absorb flavors from other ingredients it's cooked with. In the photo there are three dried ones on the left, each a little over and inch across, and on the right a rehydrated one that was originally the same size as one of the others. It is held in Chinese medicine to improve blood circulation and relieve
atherosclerosis. Preliminary tests in Western medicine are encouraging and
include confirmation of anticoagulant properties.
Blewit [Blue Foot (when cultivated),
Lepista nuda]
Wild and cultivated mushrooms with blue tinted stalks and light beige caps.
These mushrooms should be cooked to bring out their unique flavor and because
some people are sensitive to blewit toxins when eaten raw. Their flavor is
robust enough to complement casseroles, risottos and other substantial dishes
- if you can afford them. The cultivated photo specimens, purchased at Whole
Foods Market for $40/pound, were typically 2 inches across the cap and weighed
1/2 ounce each.
Boulet - See Porcini. Cep - see Porcini. Chanterelle - [Girolle (it), Pfifferling
(de), Cantharellus cibarius, C. craterellus and other spp.]
This funnel shaped mushroom is very highly regarded among food
enthusiasts in Europe and the U.S.. They are only found wild since all
attempts to cultivate them commercially have failed, so they are seasonal
and expensive. Always served cooked to bring out their woodsy flavor, they
are sturdy and can stand up to being stirred and sautéed.
Cloud Ear Fungus - see Black Fungus If there's anything on the Internet about this one it's buried under hundreds
of recipes for mushrooms with crab. It appears to be an oversize
Enoki and tastes about the same. Unlike regular enokis
these stand up quite well to light cooking, as in soups. The flavor
mellows a little but stays about the same. This cluster was 7 inches long
and weighed 4-1/2 ounces. The largest caps were about 7/8 inch across.
Crimini [Italian Brown,
Agaricus bisporus]
Similar to the White Mushroom (note the same species
name) but darker in color and with a deeper, earthier flavor. These are
called for in many Italian recipes. They will keep up to 7 days refrigerated
in a paper bag. Earthstar - [Black Mushroom,
Astraeus hygrometricus]
Varieties of this mushroom grow wild in northern California, but these are canned ones from Thailand. The can was labeled with three names, "Black Mushroom", "Earthstar" and Astraeus hygrome trieus. These mushrooms are the shape of a slightly flattened leathery sphere which encloses a puffball. When the fungus is ripe, and the weather is damp, the sphere breaks into a star shape exposing the puffball. If the weather dries the star closes. These were picked well before maturity. Be aware that safety of wild varieties is not proven. See links (F6 and F7 The spherical enclosure is somewhat crunchy and a bit leathery in texture.
Simmering for half an hour softens it only a little, but the mushroom develops
an interesting meaty flavor - more meaty than any other mushroom on this page.
The larger photo specimens are about 1 inch diameter while the smallest
in the can was 1/2 inch. They averaged a little under 1/4 ounce each.
Enoki - [Flammulina veluptipes]
This distinctive mushroom grows in clusters of long thin stems each
topped with a very small round cap. A favorite of Japanese cuisine, they have
a mild flavor and a slight crunch and are generally used raw. If you attempt
to cook they they become limp and stringy and the flavor does not improve.
left attached to their growing matrix and loosely wrapped they will keep up
to 14 days in the refrigerator. Enoki - Golden - []
These have just appeared in some of the Asian markets in Los Angeles - until
now enokis were always white. The photo specimens were 3-1/2 inches high and
the caps were up to 0.28 inches diameter but they grew much longer in the
refrigerator. These seem a bit sweeter with a bit more mushroom flavor than
regular enokis. When cooked they remain crunchy, but the color becomes muddy
and the flavor a bit washed out. All in all, I think these are best used raw
scattered as a garnish as the white enokis are.
Hon-Shimeji (Brown, White) - [Beech
Mushroom, Clamshell Mushroom, Hypsyzygus tessulatus]
In nature these tiny mushrooms grow high in beech trees but are grown
commercially on prepared corn cobs. They're sold in clusters of medium length
stems with caps 1 inch in diameter and smaller. Both light tan cap and white
cap varieties are sold in Japanese and Korean markets. They are used cooked
(they're a bit bitter raw) and "stem on", sautéed or in stir frys
or soups and remain slightly crunchy even with longer cooking. The flavor
is quite mild, slightly sweet, slightly nutty so use them in dishes that won't
overpower them. They will keep for about 10 days refrigerated in a paper
bag if left on their substrate. Maitake - [Hen of the Woods,
Grifola frondosa]
These frilly funguses start from a tough base and become somewhat
crumbly at the outer edges. They are just a bit bitter raw and are generally
cooked to bring out their woodsy taste and distinctive aroma. Maitakes have
generally been hard to get and very expensive, around US $25/pound, but
prices are dropping as production methods are improved. I purchased these,
imported from Japan, for about $7.50/pound in an Asian market in Los Angeles.
This cluster was about 4-1/2 inches across and weighed 4-1/4 ounces.
Left on their substrate and loosely wrapped they will keep up to 10 days
refrigerated. Morel [Morchella Esculentia]
The photo specimens were purchased in an 880 ml jar.
The largest was 3/4 inch across the cap and 1-3/4 inches long but they do
grow to as large as 1-1/2 inches across the cap. The average weight of the
specimens was 0.08 ounces (13 to an ounce). In Japan they are often added
to miso soup.
Oyster Mushrooms - [Pleruotus
ostreatus, P. sapidus, P. pulmonarus, P. citrino-pileatus and others]
A number of varieties of mild flavored mushroom that come in various
sizes and colors and are used cooked. The off-center stem is characteristic
and many are fan shaped, highly irregular and overlapping. Most varieties
are highly perishable, they will keep up to 4 days lightly wrapped and
refrigerated - if you are lucky.
Po-Ku Mushroom - generally these are canned Shiitakes from China or Korea. Porcini [Boulet (us), Cep (fr),
Boletus edulis]
Considered by some the "king of mushrooms", the boulet has a dome
shaped cap ranging from tan to reddish brown with a sponge like underside
rather than gills. The stem is thick and white to yellow. Dried Porcini are
becoming fairly common in U.S. groceries, but at about $5.00 per ounce and
up. They are very fragrant, so cheap dried Shiitakes make a poor
substitute. Portobella [Portabello,
Agaricus bisporus]
A variety of Crimini that is given a longer growing
cycle allowing it to become more mature before harvesting. Note the species
name is the same as the Crimini and the White Button
mushroom. It can reach sizes
of up to 6 inches across and is often used for stuffing or as a substitute
for a meat patty in vegetarian hamburgers. The flavor is deeper and meatier
than the less mature Crimini. They can be kept up to 10 days refrigerated in
a paper bag. Irregularly spherical with no stem, these mushrooms grow on hardwood
trees. Their mild sweet taste and firm texture are said to make them suitable
to replace lobster in recipes. Now the flavor is intriguing but I'm not
about to tell you it tastes like lobster. The photo specimens were
canned but they are also available dried. The one to the left is 2-1/2 inches
from bottom to top but these fungi grow to over a foot across. As you can see
from the slice they are solid and meaty. Psilocybian - [Magic Mushroom,
Psilocybe Cubensis and other spp.]
Shiitake [Chinese, Black or Forest
Mushroom, Oak Mushroom, Lentinus edodes]
Varying from tan to dark brown, Shiitakes, both fresh and dried are almost always used cooked. They are much tougher than Criminis and have a more intense mushroom flavor. Dried they run from 1-1/2 to 2 inches in diameter and weigh 7 to 10 to the ounce. Fresh they run from 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 inches in diameter and weigh 3 to 5 to the ounce. Of the photo specimens the three on the left are fresh and the two on the right are dried. Dried Shiitakes are generally sold as "dried black mushroom" or "dried forest mushroom". In any case they are easily identifiable due to the texture of the top of the cap. Fresh shiitakes are now produced in large quantity in several areas of the U.S. and are ever easier to find. In many East Asian markets a special grade of dried shiitakes that is very light in color with deep crackling on the top surface is sold at very high prices, often in windowed gift boxes. Details and Cooking. Stinkhorn [Bamboo Fungus,
Bamboo Heart, Maiden's Veil, Veiled Lady, Dictyophora indusiata]
They have just a little earthy flavor of their own but a delicate crunchy
texture that holds up well to cooking and a mesh structure that holds light
sauces and broth flavors extremely well. Use them in soups, stews and other
light liquidy dishes where they are attractively suspended (the photo
specimens are floating in water) and they'll add substance and texture.
Nutritionally they are high in fiber and amino acids.
Straw Mushrooms - [Thai straw mushroom,
Paddy Straw Mushroom; Nam rom (Viet); Volvariella volvacea]
These are grown on rice straw and are not yet widely available fresh even in California. They are, however, available canned in stores catering to Asian communities. Mistaking the almost identical but highly toxic death cap (Amanita phalloides) for straw mushrooms has resulted in death and need for liver transplants among Asian immigrants to the US and Australia. Straw mushrooms are canned in two forms: egg shaped with the cap and
stem still completely encapsulated by a shroud called the volva, or partially
opened with a conical cap on a short thick stem. These are called "unpeeled"
and "peeled" on the can but the "peeled" is just a more mature form of the
"unpeeled". They are also available dried but not commonly. Straw Mushrooms
are very important in Southeast Asian cuisines, particularly Thai. In
Vietnam they may be found growing wild on old termite mounds. These are
much stronger in flavor than cultivated and fetch a much higher price.
Details and Cooking
. Suillus Granulatus -
[Granulated slippery Jack, Suillus granulatus]
This Boletus type mushroom is rather a newcomer to the commercial market but
is now being grown in China. It appears mostly in marinated form, as the
photo specimens are. In the wild they grow up to 3 inches across but the
photo specimens were about 1-1/4 inch, As with other Boletus type mushrooms
the underside of the cap has pores rather than gills. A light flavored
mushroom. These are quite common in Asian markets in Los Angeles, generally
produced in Taiwan but probably also China. Except for a couple exporter
listings and one menu item from a caterer in Singapore they are unknown on
the Internet, at least under the name toriashi. They are available canned
and are pretty much interchangeable with straw mushrooms except they need
to be cut differently because they are a little firmer and more elongated.
The largest of the photo specimens was 2.75 inches long, 0.9 inches diameter
at the stem end and weighed 0.63 ounce. Truffles
White Fungus - [Silver Ear,
Tremella fuciformis]
White Button [Supermarket Mushroom,
Paris Mushroom, French Cultivated, Agaricus bisporus]
This common mushroom is not particularly interesting from a
flavor standpoint but it's easy and economical to grow in quantity. It
was, in fact, the first mushroom cultivated in quantity with production
started in limestone quarries outside Paris in the 18th century. They will
keep up to 7 days refrigerated in a paper bag, but darken and start to
shrivel. They will become slimy and rot within hours if kept in plastic.
The photo specimens are around 2 inches across, fairly typical, but they
are also sold somewhat larger and quite a bit smaller. Small ones are
also avaiable canned. Wood Ear Fungus - see Black Fungus Health & NutritionToxicity: Many fungi are highly toxic, including any reputed to have psychoactive properties. Extreme caution must be exercised and any fungus that is not positively identified should not be consumed in any form. In at least one case, Coprinus, the mushroom is safe but it renders alcohol highly toxic. Commercially grown mushrooms do not contain dangerous levels of toxins. Benzine & Hydrazine: Raw white mushrooms are known to contain some amount of benzine and hydrazines, both known carcinogens. Hydrazines can survive even extended cooking. These mushrooms also contain other compounds, including antioxidants, which suppress tumor formation and growth (3). The total impact on health is unknown but in general even raw white mushrooms are generally considered safe in commonly consumed amounts. Vitamin D: Mushrooms are about the only non-animal source for vitamin D, a vitamin which most people are reported to be deficient in. It has recently been found that even short exposure to ultraviolet light greatly increases the vitamin D content when applied either before or after harvest. It does, however, cause white mushrooms to be browner, more like crimini mushrooms. The mushroom industry is planning to market "D enhanced" mushrooms. General: White mushrooms (and presumably others)
are a good source for copper, potassium, selenium and the B-vitamins niacin,
pantothenic acid and riboflavin. They also contain a powerful antioxidant,
ergothioneine, in greater quantity than in the next best sources, chicken
livers and wheat germ. Mushrooms are very low in calories and are fat and
cholesterol free (4)..
|
©Andrew Grygus
- ajg@aaxnet.com - Linking and non-commercial use permitted
All trademarks and trade names are recognized as property of their owners