Cabbages
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Our arrangement here is functional, rather than scientific, so plants
of different genera and species are mixed together.
General & History
Cabbages, Mustards, Turnips and Radishes (to the botanist they're all
"Mustards") are native to Europe and Asia. Because they were so important
to diet and survival they have been bred for desirable features since
prehistoric times. While some were bred for roots and others for flower
heads, leaves were not neglected either. All these plants are naturally
loose leafed, but "heading" cabbages had already been developed in
Mediterranean Europe during Roman times.
Varieties
All the cabbages, mustards and turnips important as edible greens
belong to the genus Brassica of family Brassicaceae. Despite
their diversity of appearance they belong to just a few species, though each
species may have many very different agriculturally developed cultivars. The
exception is the Rutabaga which is a cross between a cabbage and a
turnip (Rutabaga leaves are edible but I've never seen them sold).
- B. oleracea - Cabbages, Broccoli, Cauliflower, Kale, Brussels Sprouts.
- B. rapa - Turnips, Chinese cabbages. Rapini
- B. juncea - Mustard Greens.
- B. napus - Rape (source of canola oil)
- B. sativus - Radishes.
Head Cabbages -
Oleracea Species - [Brassica oleracea
Groups capitata and Gemmifera]
The major cultivars of heading cabbage are f. alba (white) and
f. rubra (red) but there are numerous varieties of each.
Categorization is not always clear - for instance, there's a continuum of
varieties from white cabbage to savoy cabbage.
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Brussels Sprouts - [B. oleracea
Group Gemmifera]
This cabbage grows a large fibrous central stem with large collard-like
leaves radiating from it. When those leaves become old they yellow and
fall off, and are replaced not by new leaves but by small cabbage heads
radiating out from the main stem just above the leaf scar. Cabbages of this
type may have been known in Roman times, but they first became a major crop
in Belgium around 1590.
These cabbages have long been voted
"most hated vegetable" in England, but even there they are becoming more
popular as the English slowly learn to cook. The photo specimen stem was
20 inches long and weighed 3 pounds 11 ounces. Individual heads were up to
1-3/4 inches diameter. Yield was 61 heads weighing 2 pounds 14 ounces
(78%).
Details and Cooking.
Flathead Cabbage - [Taiwan Cabbage,
Group capitata f. alba]
Marketed as "Taiwan Cabbage" in a Los Angeles Asian market, this is
not an Asian cabbage at all but a regular White Cabbage of the
flathead persuasion. In the U.S. white cabbages are described by
season (early, mid, late) and by shape (flat, round, etc.). This cabbage
can be used in the same manner as any other white cabbage. The photo
specimen was 7-1/2 inches in diameter, 4 inches high and weighed 2 pounds.
Napa Cabbage - This is actually a turnip green - see
Napa Cabbage under Asian Greens.
Red Cabbage - [Red Kraut, Blue Kraut,
Group capitata var. f. rubra]
Red cabbages are very similar to the white except for the red coloration
from Anthocyanin pigments. Color may vary from red to blue depending on
acidity of the soil the cabbage grew in. This red pigment is a
powerful antioxidant, the same one found in red wine. Red cabbage has
been popular in Northern Europe because it keeps better than white
cabbage so doesn't need to be made into sauerkraut to get through the
winter. Some writers say red cabbage tastes exactly like white but that
isn't quite true.
Details & Cooking.
Savoy Cabbage - [Group capitata]
This cabbage is similar to White Cabbage but the leaves are all crinkly
so the head is lighter in weight and pointy at the top. The leaves are
very large and unwrap easily from the head.Taste is similar to White
Cabbage except not quite as sweet, so you would probably only want to
use this relatively expensive cabbage for recipes that have a real reason
for its unique characteristics. The photo sample was 6 inches diameter
and weighed 1-1/4 pounds.
White Cabbage - [Group capitata
var f. alba]
This is the standard Euro/American cabbage and the one European sauerkraut
is made from (Asian sauerkraut is made from an entirely different cabbage).
Many cultivars are grown but they all look exactly the same in the store.
All the big loose outer leaves are removed at the farm and the last
semi-loose ones are removed at the store leaving just a pale green ball
of immature leaves. The photo specimen was a typical market size at 6 inches
diameter and 2 pounds, but heads grown for sauerkraut can weigh up to
60 pounds.
Details & Cooking.
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Loose Leaf Greens
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Chard
Chard is not a cabbage, it's a beet green, a member of the
Amaranth Family.
Collard Greens - [Couve (Brazil),
Couve-galega (Portugal), Berza (Spanish), Brassica oleracea
Group Acephala]
This cabbage originated in the Mediterranean and was grown by the
ancient Greeks and Romans who carried it as far north as Scotland. Scots
took it to the American South where it was adopted by slaves because it
could be used like an African green they were accustomed to cooking.
Collard is probably a corruption of "coleworts" (cabbage plants).
Collard greens are still popular in the U.S. South and available in
groceries throughout the USA. They are also a popular side dish for fish
and meat in Portugal and Brazil. These greens are very tough and rather
indigestible raw, but are quite nutritious after cooking until tender -
which takes a lot longer than for other cabbages. The photo specimens were
up to 15 inches long.
Kale - [Brassica oleracea
Group Acephala]
Closely related to Collard Greens, kale comes in
various shades of green (mostly dark blue-green) and degrees of curliness.
Until the Renaissance kale was the dominant cabbage throughout most of
Europe and is still much grown there and in North America. Curly Kale is
the most common form in North American supermarkets but other varieties
occasionally appear. In Europe kale is often paired with potatoes to
accompany sausages or ham. Kale is considered the highest ranking
vegetable for nutrition vs. calories and contains powerful antioxidants.
Details and Cooking.
Kohlrabi - [Aaanth Gobhi (India),
B. oleracea group Gongylodes]
It may look like it belongs with the root cabbages but the "bulb" is
actually a swollen stem so it's all "greens". The leaves can be used along
with the stem, which is similar to broccoli stem but sweeter. Generally
these are eaten fairly small because they become woody as they grow larger,
about 2 inches in the spring and 4 inches in the fall. Cultivar Gigante
is still edible in larger sizes. Young kohlrabi can be eaten raw
in salads as well as being cooked.
Mustard Greens - [Mustard Cabbage,
B. juncea]
Possibly originating in Central Asia, this species spread all through
Europe and China and exists as many cultivars very different from each
other (see Gai Choy for an example). Mustard greens
were carried to North America and are popular in the cuisine of the
American South to give a touch of pungency to
Collards and other greens. The photo specimens were
14 inches long.
Rappini - [Broccoli Rabe, Broccoletti
(Italian), B. Rapa Group Ruvo]
Though it looks much like Chinese Broccoli and has broccoli-like flower heads,
Rappini is actually a turnip green. Originally an Italian vegetable it is now
widely grown and widely available in the USA. The leaves have spiky edges and
the taste is relatively sharp and just a touch bitter compared to broccoli.
It is a significant source of vitamins A, C, and K, potassium, calcium, and
iron.
Turnip Greens - [B. rapa rapa]
Originating in Europe or Western Asia, the turnip has been cultivated since
prehistoric times. It is most known as a root crop and has been essential
to winter survival in Northern Europe for thousands of year. Some
varieties have been developed for their leaves rather than roots. I
consider this the best green for mixing up with sausages for breakfast.
The photo specimens were 15 inches long.
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Herbs -
[Various Brassicaceae Genera and species species]
A number of members of the Brassicaceae order are used as herbs,
most often raw, rather than as greens.
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Rocket - [Roquette (fr),
Rucola (it), Rughetta (it), B. Eruca species, B. Diplotaxis
species (wall rocket) and others]
"Rocket" is a loosly applied name to a number of small herbs with a
peppery pungency. Many are common weeds but some are used to pep up
salads, particularly Arugula.
Arugula -
[Arugula (us) Rocket (uk), Roquette (fr), Rucola (it), Rughetta (it),
B. Eruca sativa (garden) B. Eruca vesicaria (wild)]
This popular salad green of Mediterranean origin has been used since
at least Roman times. Almost unknown in the U.S. a decade ago it is today
the "must have" green for yuppie salads, so supermarkets stock precut and
washed bags of "baby" arugula. The leaves are small and tender
but have a distinctly mustardy bite, backed by an unusually complex flavor.
Some varieties have leaves less deeply cut than the photo specimen and
the leaves are very deeply cut on the wild version. The most beautiful
bunch of Arugula I've ever purchased was from Whole Foods Market - and
it was so flavorless it was unusable. In Italy Arugula is used in soups,
but cooked it looses almost all its flavor.
Details and Cooking.
Persian Cress - [Shahi, Shahee,
Tartizak (Iran); Lepidium sativum ]
This peppery herb, a broadleaf variety of Garden Cress, is very popular
in the Middle East, particularly Iran. It is widely available in produce
markets here in Los Angeles, sold under various mispellings of its name,
due to our large Middle Eastern population. It is used in sandwiches, in
traditional Persian herb salads and as a last moment addition to soups.
It's peppery taste is similar too but less complex than that of Arugula.
The leaves and stems are thinner and more delicate than those of
Watercress.
Watercress -
[Kotem (Armenia), B. Nasturtium nasturtium-aquaticum and N. microphyllum]
Watercress, native to Europe and Western Asia, has been cultured and eaten
since prehistoric times. Its relatively mild mustardy bite is a welcome
addition to green salads and in sandwiches, but it's also used cooked in
soups and other recipes. Depending on how it was grown and cut some of
the stems can be quite large. All but the largest can be used along with
the leaves as they are hollow, tender and have much the same flavor as the
leaves. Details and Cooking.
Garden Cress - [Pepper Grass, Pepperwort,
B. Lepidium sativum]
Used similarly to Watercress this green can tolerate
a wider range of moisture conditions so can be grown either in the garden
or hydroponically, preferring a slightly alkaline environment. It said to
be in great demand in some regions but I have never seen it in Southern
California where the broader leafed watercress is widely available year
round. Garden cress can grow to about 24 inches high and when allowed
to flower it produces fruits which when immature are similar to caper
berries. Cropped from original photo by
Rainer Zenz
licensed under the
GNU
Free Document License v1.2 or later.
Pepper Cress - [Pepper Grass, Pepperwort,
B. Lepidium possibly spc. ruderale, or may be a variety
of sativum]
Of the many very different plants called "Pepper Cress", this one has very
fine, delicate leaves and a peppery taste quite a bit stronger than that
of Wattercress. It can be a very good accent addition to salads. The photo
specimen were obtained from a farmer's market in Los Angeles.
Nasturtium -
[B. Tropaeolum majus]
Oddly, Nasturtiums doesn't belong to genus Nasturtium (Watercress does).
Both the flowers and leaves of this easy to grow plant are used, mostly
in salads. The leaves are fairly strongly peppery while the flowers are
milder and very decorative, being fairly large and coming in yellow,
orange and red. Nasturtium buds are sometimes pickled as a substitute for
capers.
Photo © i0093.
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Asian Cabbage, Mustard & Turnip Greens
A Choy
A Choy is not a cabbage, it's a Lettuce, a member of the
Daisy Family.
Rapa Species - Turnip Greens -
[Brassica rapa]
All the varieties in this group are actually turnip greens - turnips bred
for leaves and stems rather than root. The only Western green of this sort
is Rapini (Italian broccoli). This species includes all the Asian greens
that have become standard in American markets.
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Bok Choy, Large - [Xiao baicai (Mandarin);
Pak Kwang Bae Bai Khao (Thai); Brassica rapa Group
Chinensis]
This large form is now widely available in North American produce markets
and even many supermarkets. This vegetable is the "cabbage" of
southern China, while Napa Cabbage (also a
turnip green) takes its place in the north. It is available in a variety
of sizes but the photo specimen was 14-1/2 inches long and weighed just
over 3 pounds.
Details and Cooking.
Bok Choy Mui - [Brassica rapa Group
Chinensis]
This is the "real" baby bok choy, one of my favorite vegetables for
stir fries and such, but it's not widely available outside markets serving
Asian communities. It is not really "baby", it's a tiny variety, as
witnessed by the mature flower heads you will find on it. There are
actually a number of miniature cultivars, some smaller, some larger.
Taste is similar to full size bok choy but the distribution of stem
and leaf is more pleasing in my opinion.
Details and Cooking.
Bok Choy - Long - [Brassica rapa Group
Chinensis]
This cultivar is longer and narrower than a regular mid-size bok
choy, but it tastes the same and can be used in exactly the same way. It
does have the advantage that the stems are less bulky, thus need less lead
time over the leaves when cooking and the texture of the dish will be less
coarse. It frequently shows up in Asian markets in Los Angeles, but probably
not much elsewhere yet.
Details and Cooking.
Bok Choy - Shanghai - [Baby Bok Choy (U.S.
groceries), qingcai (Shanghai Chinese), Pak Kwang Tung Hong Tae
(Thai); Chingensai (Japanese);
Brassica rapa Group Chinensis]
Probably the most popular vegetable in Shanghai, this bok choy
is now widely available in North American supermarkets. It's smaller than
the regular bok choy they sell, so supermarkets, always anxious to snag
the yuppie dollar, call it "baby bok choy". Hey, they buy "baby carrots"
(machine made from large carrots) and bags of bland "baby spinach", so
"baby" anything should sell.
The flavor of this bok choy is somewhat different than that of the
white stemmed variety. Besides being light green the stems are also much
thinner, this variety is better suited to steam whole or split lengthwise.
In Asian markets a tiny "Mui" version is also sometimes seen.
Details and Cooking.
Bok Choy - Taiwan - [Taiwan Pak Choy;
Brassica rapa Group Chinensis]
A very tender bok choy with light green to slightly yellowish leaves. The
stems, which are whiter than those of Shanghai bok choy, are almost as
tender as the leaves. It is mild in taste and cooking properties are
very much like lettuce (lettuce is used in stir fries in Taiwan).
This is not a traditional green but was recently developed in Taiwan.
and has started (2011) appearing in markets here. The photo specimens
were bought from an Asian market in Los Angeles in a 1 pound 5 ounce bag.
Details and Cooking.
Napa Cabbage - [Chinese Cabbage,
Celery Cabbage; Da Baicai, Pe-Tsai, Wong Bok (China); Hakusai (Japan);
Brassica rapa Group Pekinensis]
Napa Cabbage (the name comes from the Napa Valley, California) is what
most of the world thinks of as "Chinese Cabbage", even though it's actually
a turnip green. In southern China that name more properly belongs
to Bok Choy (also a turnip green). Napa
cabbage is much favored in northern China and Korea, especially for its
winter keeping properties.
There are two common forms, the short blocky form now found in just
about every North American grocery store, and a long narrow form pointed
at the top. The long form is found in markets serving Asian communities
and is preferred for making Korean kimchee, Chinese sauerkraut and for
other fermented or pickled applications. The taste and texture are the
same, the long shape is simply more convenient for those uses.
Details and Cooking.
Mizuna - [Kyona (Japan), Xiu Cai (China),
Chinese Potherb Mustard (made up by people desperate for an English name),
California Peppergrass, Brassica rapa Group Nipposinica]
This extremely mild turnip green is widely grown in China and particularly
Japan. It's currently not common in regular markets even here in Los
Angeles, and even in Asian markets, but is easily found in yuppie outlets
like Whole Foods Market. You can use it raw in salads or cooked in soups
and stir fries. Raw I find it so mild it's hardly worth the bother, but
lightly steamed or stir fried it has much more flavor and is quite pleasant,
particularly if you consider regular mustard greens too strong.
Tatsoi - [Rosette Bok/Pak Choy, Chinese
Flat Cabbage, Broad-beak Mustard, Spoon Leaf Mustard, Ta gu Choy, Tagu
Choy; Ta gu cai, Ta cai (China); Tai koo choi (Cantonese); Taasai
(Japan); Brassica rapa group narinosa]
This choy is a mildly mustardy turnip green with an unusual growth
pattern. It is very flat with the long stemmed spoon shaped leaves growing
horizontally from the center.
The photo specimen, purchased from an Asian
grower in Los Angeles, was 18 inches in diameter and only about 4 inches
high, weighing 14 ounces. Tatsoi is widely described as a cross between
regular bok choy and shanghai (baby) bok choy, but I can not confirm that.
I find this a fine general purpose choy - give the stems a head start
over the leaves when cooking.
Details and Cooking
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Chinese Broccoli - see Gai-lan.
Chinese Cabbage - see Napa Cabbage.
Choy Sum
This name does not specify a specific vegetable but translates as
"vegetable heart". It consists of just the center stalk and flower head
and the leaves directly on that stalk of any Chinese cabbage. The most
common are Bok Choy Sum which has white stems and
Yu Choy which has green stems.
Juncea Species - Mustard Greens
- [Brassica juncea]
All the varieties in this group are mustards and related to the Western
mustard greens found in American markets, though some are quite different
appearance and texture.
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Gai Choy - [Mustard Cabbage, Swatow Mustard,
B. juncea]
Despite its different appearance, this mustard is of the same species
as the common mustard greens sold in American
groceries and has about the same pungency but the leaves and stems are
fleshier. These greens are most commonly pickled and / or salted as
"Preserved Mustard". In the larger sizes they are considered imperfectly
digestible if not pickled, but smaller ones are used in stir fries.
Small Gai Choy - [Mustard Cabbage, Swatow
Mustard, B. juncea]
This cultivar shares the ridged leaves and curved growth habit of
large Gai Choy, but is looser, longer, greener and the ridges are less
pronounced. it is quite a bit milder and more tender - excellent for stir
frys, particularly with pork or chicken.
The stems, even large ones are tender. Be careful not to overcook, the
stems should retain some crunch. Actually, it's quite edible raw. The
photo specimes were purchased from an Asian market in Los Angeles at
US $1.78 / pound, and were about 12 inches long.
Sher Li Hon - [Brassica juncea
var. multiceps Tsen et Lee)]
These mustard greens are very mild and sweet, and the stems are extremely
tender - there is no need to give them a head start over the leaves when
cooking unless they are very large. Even at 1 inch they are edible and
without noticeable fibers. The leaves are thin and tender. The photo
specimens were up to 24 inches long with the largest stem about 1 inch
diameter. There are other cultivars under this same name that have leaves
of different shape.
Details and Cooking. .
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Oleracea Species - Cabbages
- [Brassica oleracea]
Most Asian greens are turnips, mustards and rapes (though Western head
cabbages are increasingly used there). The one notable exception is
Chinese Broccoli, which is actually a broccoli.
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Gai-lan - [Chinese Broccoli, Chinese Kale,
Kai-lan (China), B. oleracea Group Alboglabra]
While it looks a lot like Rapini (Italian broccoli), Chinese
Broccoli is actually a broccoli, related to Western broccoli and cabbages.
Interestingly, Rapini is a turnip green, one of only a few turnip green
commonly used in the West. Gai Lan is different in form from European
broccoli having thinner more tender stems, tiny flower heads and a lot of
large leaves - probably resembling European broccoli during the Roman
Empire.
The stems are always used and open flowers, generally white, do not
become bitter and are included with the rest of the plant when cooking.
Separate leaves from stems and give the stems a head start when cooking.
This is a very important vegetable in the cooking of China and Southeast
Asia but only beginning to show up in U.S. supermarkets.
Details & Cooking.
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Napus Species - Oilseed Rape
- [Brassica napus]
Plants shown here are all edible varieties of Oilseed Rape. A genetically
engineered variety produces Canola oil (a low erucic acid rapeseed oil).
While most rape grown worldwide is used to produce oil and animal feed,
these edible varieties are very fine vegetables indeed, and are now widely
available in North American markets serving Asian communities. They are
particularly noted for the sweetness and tenderness of their stems.
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Yu Choy - [Oilseed Rape, Chinese Spinach;
Pak Kwang Tung Dok (Thai); Yu Choy, Yau Choy (China); Nanohana (Japan),
Brassica napus]
This is an edible variety of the same plant Canola Oil and Rapeseed Oil are
produced from (Canola is a non-toxic low erucic acid rapeseed oil).
While most rape grown worldwide is used to produce oil and animal feed,
the edible variety is used as a vegetable and is now widely available in
North American markets serving Asian communities. It is particularly noted
for the sweetness and tenderness of its stems.
Some refer to Yu Choy as "Chinese Spinach", but that's not very
accurate. Yu Choy does have a touch of the oxalic sharpness of spinach,
but very much milder, and the flavor is definitely of the mustard family.
Details and Cooking
Yu Choy, Mongolian - [Oilseed
Rape, Yu Choy, Yau Choy (China); Brassica napus]
I don't know if they actually grow this in Mongolia, but it's
definitely a less civilized cultivar than regular Yu Choy.
Regular Yu Choy is quite sweet, but this is even sweeter - the stems
are practically like candy. Unfortunately it is not yet common even in
Los Angeles. The photo specimens were 25 inches tall with stems about 3/4
inch diameter at the base. They were obtained from an Asian grower in Los
Angeles, and he's the one who told me it was called Mongolian Yu Choy.
Details and Cooking
Yu Choy, Humong - [Oilseed Rape,
Yu Choy, Yau Choy (China); Brassica napus]
This uncomon variety was obtained from an Asian grower in Los
Angeles. The photo specimens were 13 inches tall with stems about 3/4
inch diameter at the base. This variety was very sweet, but not as
sweet as the Mongolian variety above.
Details and Cooking
Wa Wa Choy - [Oilseed Rape,
Brassica napus]
This is certainly a very strange version of Yu Choy (and very rare). The
photo shows a single stem, 2-1/8 inches wide at the base, with smaller
stems branching from it and very little leaf, yet this huge stem cooks
up quickly and very tender. It is just a touch fibrous at the skin, but
by no means does it need peeling. The stems are quite sweet, but not
cloyingly so. The photo specimen, purchased from an Asian market in Los
Angeles was 11-3/4 inches high and weighed 1 pound 11 ounces. Its rarity
is reflected in the price of US $2.78 per pound..
Details and Cooking
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Sativus Species - Radishes
- [Brassica sativus]
All the varieties in this group are related to the regular red and white
radishes found in American markets, but are used for greens in addition
to roots. Some of these greens are considerably more tender than those
of Western radishes, but they are sold only in Asian markets where the
turnover is high, because they yellow quickly, becoming unusable.
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Radish Greens - [Lobok (China), Mu (Korea),
Daikon (Japan), Raphanus sativus (many cultivars)]
Radishes are a major crop in East Asia with all parts bring used,
including greens. Korean markets here in Los Angeles carry a full line
of radishes from "all greens" to giant multi-pound roots with their
coarse greens removed - and many "dual purpose" sizes in between. The photo
specimens are a variety sold primarily for greens.
Radish Sprouts - [Kaiware (Japan),
Raphanus sativus (many cultivars)]
While radish greens aren't much used outside Asian communities,
Daikon Sprouts have become popular, particularly for vegetarian sandwiches
and salads where their sharp radishy bite helps to liven up the mix. They
are generally packaged in a tall flimsy plastic container with growing
matrix in the bottom. The photo specimen was 5 inches high (including matrix
and roots) and weighed 5-3/8 ounces with a 2-1/2 ounce yield.
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Health & Nutrition
All cabbage greens are considered highly nutritious. Aside from being
vitamin and mineral storehouses many are very high in antioxidants and
a number are considered to offer significant anti-cancer benefits. One
researcher considers Kale to have the highest ratio
of nutrition to calories of any vegetable and uses it as the standard for
his system of nutrition classification.
Links
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