Cabbages Cabbage & Mustard Greens

In northern climates Cabbages, Mustards and Turnips have provided the only green vegetables available in the winter months. Some, like red cabbage, keep well fresh while others have been pickled and preserved in various ways. Their pungency, flavor and nutritional value has, and still does, relieve the bland starchiness of winter root vegetables.



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Cabbages

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General & History

Cabbages, Mustards and Turnips (to the botanist they're all "Mustards") are native to Europe and Asia. Because they were so important to diet and survival they have been bred for desirable features since prehistoric times. While some were bred for roots and others for flower heads, leaves were not neglected either. All these plants are naturally loose leafed, but "heading" cabbages had already been developed in Mediterranean Europe during Roman times.

Varieties

All the cabbages, mustards and turnips important as edible greens belong to the genus Brassica of family Brassicaceae. Despite their diversity of appearance they belong to just a few species, though each species may have many very different agriculturally developed cultivars.

  • B. oleracea - Cabbages, Broccoli, Cauliflower, Kale, Brussels Sprouts.
  • B. rapa - Turnips, Chinese cabbages. Rapini, Mustard Greens
  • B. juncea - Mustard Greens.
  • B. napus - Rape (Canola), Rutabaga.

Brussels Sprouts - [B. oleracea Group Gemmifera] Brussels Sprouts

This cabbage grows a large fibrous central stem with large collard-like leaves radiating from it. When those leaves become old they yellow and fall off, and are replaced not by new leaves but by small cabbage heads radiating out from the main stem just above the leaf scar. Cabbages of this type may have been known in Roman times, but they first became a major crop in Belgium around 1590.

These cabbages have long been voted "most hated vegetable" in England, but even there they are becoming more popular as the English slowly learn to cook. The photo specimen stem was 20 inches long and weighed 3 pounds 11 ounces. Individual heads were up to 1-3/4 inches diameter. Yield was 61 heads weighing 2 pounds 14 ounces (78%).   Details and Cooking.

Broccoli Rabe - see Rapini.

Head Cabbages - Capitata Group - [Brassica oleracea Group capitata]
The major cultivars of heading cabbage are f. alba (white) and f. rubra (red) but with each there are numerous varieties of each. Categorization is not always clear - for instance, there's a continuum of varieties from white cabbage to savoy cabbage.


Flathead Cabbage - [Taiwan Cabbage, Group capitata f. alba]
Flathead Cabbage

Marketed as "Taiwan Cabbage" in a Los Angeles Asian market, this is not an Asian cabbage at all but a regular White Cabbage of the flathead persuasion. In the U.S. white cabbages are described by season (early, mid, late) and by shape (flat, round, etc.). This cabbage can be used in the same manner as any other white cabbage. The photo specimen was 7-1/2 inches in diameter, 4 inches high and weighed 2 pounds.

Napa Cabbage - This is actually a turnip green - see Napa Cabbage under Asian Greens.

Red Cabbage - [Red Kraut, Blue Kraut, Group capitata var. f. rubra]
Red Cabbage

Red cabbages are very similar to the white except for the red coloration from Anthocyanin pigments. Color may vary from red to blue depending on acidity of the soil the cabbage grew in. This red pigment is a powerful antioxidant, the same one found in red wine. Red cabbage has been popular in Northern Europe because it keeps better than white cabbage so doesn't need to be made into sauerkraut to get through the winter. Some writers say red cabbage tastes exactly like white but that isn't quite true.   Details & Cooking.

Savoy Cabbage - [Group capitata]
White Cabbage

This cabbage is similar to White Cabbage but the leaves are all crinkly so the head is lighter in weight and pointy at the top. The leaves are very large and unwrap easily from the head.Taste is similar to White Cabbage except not quite as sweet, so you would probably only want to use this relatively expensive cabbage for recipes that have a real reason for its unique characteristics. The photo sample was 6 inches diameter and weighed 1-1/4 pounds.

White Cabbage - [Group capitata var f. alba]
White Cabbage

This is the standard Euro/American cabbage and the one European sauerkraut is made from (Asian sauerkraut is made from an entirely different cabbage). Many cultivars are grown but they all look exactly the same in the store. All the big loose outer leaves are removed at the farm and the last semi-loose ones are removed at the store leaving just a pale green ball of immature leaves. The photo specimen was a typical market size at 6 inches diameter and 2 pounds, but heads grown for sauerkraut can weigh up to 60 pounds.   Details & Cooking.


Loose Leaf Greens


Arugula   -   [Arugula (us) Rocket (uk), Roquette (fr), Rucola (it), Rughetta (it), B. Eruca sativa (garden) B. Eruca vesicaria (wild)]
Stems and Leaves

This popular salad green of Mediterranean origin has been used since at least Roman times. Almost unknown in the U.S. a decade ago it is today the "must have" green for yuppie salads, so supermarkets stock precut and washed bags of "baby" arugula. The leaves are small and tender but have a distinctly mustardy bite, backed by an unusually complex flavor. Some varieties have leaves less deeply cut than the photo specimen and the leaves are very deeply cut on the wild version. Details and Cooking See also Rocket.

Chard - Chard is not a cabbage, it's a beet, a member of the Amaranth family.

Collard Greens - [Couve (Brazil), Couve-galega (Portugal), Berza (Spanish), Brassica oleracea Group Acephala]
Collard Greens

This cabbage originated in the Mediterranean and was grown by the ancient Greeks and Romans who carried it as far north as Scotland. Scots took it to the American South where it was adopted by slaves because it could be used like an African green they were accustomed to cooking. Collard is probably a corruption of "coleworts" (cabbage plants).

Collard greens are still popular in the U.S. South and available in groceries throughout the USA. They are also a popular side dish for fish and meat in Portugal and Brazil. These greens are very tough and rather indigestible raw, but are quite nutritious after cooking until tender - which takes a lot longer than for other cabbages. The photo specimens were up to 15 inches long.

Garden Cress - [Pepper Grass, Pepperwort, B. Lepidium sativum]
Garden Cress

Used similarly to Watercress this green can tolerate a wider range of moisture conditions so can be grown either in the garden or hydroponically, preferring a slightly alkaline environment. It said to be in great demand in some regions but I have never seen it in Southern California where the broader leafed watercress is widely available year round. Garden cress can grow to about 24 inches high and when allowed to flower it produces fruits which when immature are similar to caper berries. Cropped from original photo by Rainer Zenz licensed under the GNU Free Document License v1.2 or later.


Kale - [Brassica oleracea Group Acephala]
Curly Kale

Closely related to Collard Greens, kale comes in various shades of green (mostly dark blue-green) and degrees of curliness. Until the Renaissance kale was the dominant cabbage throughout most of Europe and is still much grown there and in North America. Curly Kale is the most common form in North American supermarkets but other varieties occasionally appear. In Europe kale is often paired with potatoes to accompany sausages or ham. Kale is considered the highest ranking vegetable for nutrition vs. calories and contains powerful antioxidants. Details and Cooking.

Kohlrabi - [Aaanth Gobhi (India), B. oleracea group Gongylodes]
Kohlrabi

It may look like it belongs with the root cabbages but the "bulb" is actually a swollen stem so it's all "greens". The leaves can be used along with the stem, which is similar to broccoli stem but sweeter. Generally these are eaten fairly small because they become woody as they grow larger, about 2 inches in the spring and 4 inches in the fall. Cultivar Gigante is still edible in larger sizes. Young kohlrabi can be eaten raw in salads as well as being cooked.

Mustard Greens - [Mustard Cabbage, B. juncea]
Mustard Greens

Possibly originating in Central Asia, this species spread all through Europe and China and exists as many cultivars very different from each other (see Gai Choy for an example). Mustard greens were carried to North America and are popular in the cuisine of the American South to give a touch of pungency to Collards and other greens. The photo specimens were 14 inches long.

Radish Sprouts - [Kaiware (Japan), Raphanus sativus (many cultivars)]
Radish Sprouts

Radish greens aren't much used outside Asian communities, but Daikon Sprouts have become popular particularly for vegetarian sandwiches and salads where their sharp radishy bite helps to liven up the mix. They are generally packaged in a tall flimsy plastic container with growing matrix in the bottom. The photo specimen was 5 inches high (including matrix and roots) and weighed 5-3/8 ounces with a 2-1/2 ounce yield. For more on radish greens see under Asian Greens.

Rappini - [Broccoli Rabe, Broccoletti (Italian), B. Rapa Group Ruvo]
Rapini

Though it looks much like Chinese Broccoli and has broccoli-like flower heads, Rappini is actually a turnip green. Originally an Italian vegetable it is now widely grown and widely available in the USA. The leaves have spiky edges and the taste is relatively sharp and just a touch bitter compared to broccoli. It is a significant source of vitamins A, C, and K, potassium, calcium, and iron.

Rocket - [Roquette (fr), Rucola (it), Rughetta (it), B. Eruca species, B. Diplotaxis species (wall rocket)]
Rocket

There are many varieties of rocket, a lot of which are common weeds but some are used to pep up salad, particularly Arugula The photo specimen from a local market is sold as "Chae". I haven't found further information but from the market's clientele I presume it is a variety from Western Asia. It has the expected sharp mustard bite but the flavor is simpler than that of Arugula.

Turnip Greens - [B. rapa rapa]
Turnip Greens

Originating in Europe or Western Asia, the turnip has been cultivated since prehistoric times. It is most known as a root crop and has been essential to winter survival in Northern Europe for thousands of year. Some varieties have been developed for their leaves rather than roots. I consider this the best green for mixing up with sausages for breakfast. The photo specimens were 15 inches long.

Watercress - [Kotem (Armenia), B. Nasturtium nasturtium-aquaticum and N. microphyllum]
Watercress

Watercress, native to Europe and Western Asia, has been cultured and eaten since prehistoric times. Its relatively mild mustardy bite is a welcome addition to green salads and in sandwiches, but it's also used cooked in soups and other recipes. Depending on how it was grown and cut some of the stems can be quite large. All but the largest can be used along with the leaves as they are hollow, tender and have much the same flavor as the leaves.   Details & Cooking.


Asian Cabbage, Mustard & Turnip Greens


A Choy - This is actually a lettuce and will be found in the Daisy section.

Bok Choy / Pak Choy - [Xiao baicai (Mandarin); Pak Kwang Bae Bai Khao (Thai); Brassica rapa Group Chinensis]

Bok Choy is not a cabbage but turnip greens. All versions feature a sharper flavor with thicker, crisper stems than Napa Cabbage (also a turnip green). The white stemmed varieties are very popular in stir fries and soups, the green stemmed Shanghai variety is often steamed. Bok choy does not form tight heads but the clusters of stems form a tight bundle.

Bok Choy, Large
Bok Choy stalks and leaves

This large form is now widely available in North American produce markets and even many supermarkets. This vegetable is the "cabbage" of southern China, while Napa Cabbage (also a turnip green) takes its place in the north. It is available in a variety of sizes but the photo specimen was 14-1/2 inches long and weighed just over 3 pounds. Details and Cooking.

Bok Choy Mui - [Brassica rapa Group Chinensis]
Baby Bok Choy

This is the "real" baby bok choy, one of my favorite vegetables for stir fries and such, but it's not widely available outside markets serving Asian communities. It is not really "baby", it's a tiny variety, as witnessed by the mature flower heads you will find on it. There are actually a number of miniature cultivars, some smaller, some larger. Taste is similar to full size bok choy but the distribution of stem and leaf is more pleasing in my opinion. Details and Cooking.

Bok Choy - Long - [Brassica rapa Group Chinensis]
Long Bok Choy

This cultivar is longer and narrower than a regular mid-size bok choy, but it tastes the same and can be used in exactly the same way. It does have the advantage that the stems are less bulky, thus need less lead time over the leaves when cooking and the texture of the dish will be less coarse. It frequently shows up in Asian markets in Los Angeles, but probably not much elsewhere yet. Details and Cooking.

Bok Choy - Shanghai - [Baby Bok Choy (U.S. groceries), qingcai (Shanghai Chinese), Pak Kwang Tung Hong Tae (Thai); Chingensai (Japanese); Brassica rapa Group Chinensis]
Shanghai Bok Choy

Probably the most popular vegetable in Shanghai, this bok choy is now widely available in North American supermarkets. It's smaller than the regular bok choy they sell, so supermarkets, always anxious to snag the yuppie dollar, call it "baby bok choy". Hey, they buy "baby carrots" (machine made from large carrots) and bags of bland "baby spinach", so "baby" anything should sell.

The flavor of this bok choy is somewhat different than that of the white stemmed variety. Besides being light green the stems are also much thinner, this variety is better suited to steam whole or split lengthwise. In Asian markets a tiny "Mui" version is also sometimes seen. Details and Cooking.

Bok Choy - Taiwan - [Taiwan Pak Choy; Brassica rapa Group Chinensis]
Taiwan Bok Choy

A very tender bok choy with light green to slightly yellowish leaves. The stems, which are whiter than those of Shanghai bok choy, are almost as tender as the leaves - it's almost like lettuce. I understand it was recently developed in Taiwan and has just started appearing in markets here. The photo specimens were bought from an Asian market in Los Angeles in a 1 pound 5 ounce bag. Details and Cooking.

Chinese Broccoli - see Gai-lan.

Chinese Cabbage - see Napa Cabbage.

Choy Sum
Choy Sum

This name does not specify a specific vegetable but translates as "vegetable heart". It consists of just the center stalk and flower head and the leaves directly on that stalk of any Chinese cabbage. The most common are Bok Choy Sum which has white stems and Yu Choy which has green stems.

Gai Choy - [Mustard Cabbage, Swatow Mustard, B. juncea]
Gai Choy

Despite its different appearance, this mustard is of the same species as the common mustard greens sold in American groceries and has about the same pungency but the leaves and stems are fleshier. These greens are most commonly pickled and / or salted as "Preserved Mustard". In the larger sizes they are considered imperfectly digestible if not pickled, but smaller ones are used in stir fries. There are a number of cultivars including some that are longer and leafier with less prominent ridging on the stems.

Gai-lan - [Chinese Broccoli, Chinese Kale, Kai-lan (China), B. oleracea Group Alboglabra]
Gai-lan

While it looks a lot like Rapini, Chinese Broccoli is related to European broccoli and cabbages while Rapini is a turnip green. It is different in form from European broccoli having thinner more tender stems, tiny flower heads and a lot of large leaves. The stems are always used and open flowers, generally white, do not become bitter and are also included with the rest of the plant when cooking. Separate leaves from stems and give the stems a head start when cooking. This is a very important vegetable in the cooking of China and Southeast Asia but only beginning to show up in U.S. supermarkets.   Details & Cooking.

Mizuna - [Kyona (Japan), Xiu Cai (China), Chinese Potherb Mustard (made up by people desperate for an English name), California Peppergrass, Brassica rapa Group Nipposinica]
Mizuna

This extremely mild turnip green is widely grown in China and particularly Japan. It's currently not common in regular markets even here in Los Angeles, and even in Asian markets, but is easily found in yuppie outlets like Whole Foods Market. You can use it raw in salads or cooked in soups and stir fries. Raw I find it so mild it's hardly worth the bother, but lightly steamed or stir fried it has much more flavor and is quite pleasant, particularly if you consider regular mustard greens too strong.

Napa Cabbage - [Chinese Cabbage, Celery Cabbage; Da Baicai, Pe-Tsai, Wong Bok (China); Hakusai (Japan); Brassica rapa Group Pekinensis]
Napa Cabbages

Napa Cabbage (the name comes from the Napa Valley, California) is what most of the world thinks of as "Chinese Cabbage", even though it's actually a turnip green. In southern China that name more properly belongs to Bok Choy (also a turnip green). Napa cabbage is much favored in northern China and Korea, especially for its winter keeping properties.

There are two common forms, the short blocky form now found in just about every North American grocery store, and a long narrow form pointed at the top. The long form is found in markets serving Asian communities and is preferred for making Korean kimchee, Chinese sauerkraut and for other fermented or pickled applications. The taste and texture are the same, the long shape is simply more convenient for those uses.   Details and Cooking.

Radish Greens - [Lobok (China), Mu (Korea), Daikon (Japan), Raphanus sativus (many cultivars)]
Korean Radish

Radishes are a major crop in East Asia with all parts bring used, including greens. Korean markets here in Los Angeles carry a full line of radishes from "all greens" to giant multi-pound roots with their coarse greens removed - and many "dual purpose" sizes in between. The photo specimens are a variety sold primarily for greens.

Sher Li Hon - [Brassica juncea var. multiceps Tsen et Lee)]
Stems, Leaves

These mustard greens are very mild and sweet, and the stems are extremely tender - there is no need to give them a head start over the leaves when cooking unless they are very large. Even at 1 inch they are edible and without noticeable fibers. The leaves are thin and tender. The photo specimens were up to 24 inches long with the largest stem about 1 inch diameter. There are other cultivars under this same name that have leaves of different shape.   Details and Cooking. .

Yu Choy - [Oilseed Rape, Chinese Spinach; Pak Kwang Tung Dok (Thai); Yu Choy, Yau Choy (China); Nanohana (Japan), Brassica napus]
Stems, Leaves

This is an edible variety of the same plant Canola Oil and Rapeseed Oil are produced from (Canola is a non-toxic low erucic acid rapeseed oil). While most rape grown worldwide is used to produce oil and animal feed, the edible variety is used as a vegetable and is now widely available in North American markets serving Asian communities. It is particularly noted for the sweetness and tenderness of its stems.

Some refer to Yu Choy as "Chinese Spinach", but that's not very accurate. Yu Choy does have a touch of the oxalic sharpness of spinach, but very much milder, and the flavor is definitely of the mustard family.   Details and Cooking

Yu Choy, Mongolian - [Oilseed Rape, Yu Choy Yau Choy (China); Brassica napus]
Stems, Leaves

I don't know if they actually grow this in Mongolia, but it's definitely a less civilized cultivar than regular Yu Choy. Regular Yu Choy is quite sweet, but this is even sweeter - the stems are practically like candy. Unfortunately it is not yet common even in Los Angeles. The photo specimens were 25 inches tall with stems about 3/4 inch diameter at the base. They were obtained from an Asian grower in Los Angeles, and he's the one who told me it was called Mongolian Yu Choy.   Details and Cooking

Tatsoi - [Rosette Bok/Pak Choy, Chinese Flat Cabbage, Broad-beak Mustard, Spoon Leaf Mustard, Ta gu Choy, Tagu Choy; Ta gu cai, Ta cai (China); Tai koo choi (Cantonese); Taasai (Japan); Brassica rapa group narinosa]
Ta Gu Choy

This choy is a mildly mustardy turnip green with an unusual growth pattern. It is very flat with the long stemmed spoon shaped leaves growing horizontally from the center. The photo specimen is asymmetrical, probably due to crowding, so the center of the 11 inch wide head is at front center in the photo. I find this a fine general purpose choy - give the stems a head start over the leaves when cooking.   Details and Cooking


Health Considerations

All cabbage greens are considered highly nutritious. Aside from being vitamin and mineral storehouses many are very high in antioxidants and a number are considered to offer significant anti-cancer benefits. One researcher considers Kale to have the highest ratio of nutrition to calories of any vegetable and uses it as the standard for his system of nutrition classification.

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